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I saw whole cloakroom sets for 50 notes, they are all much of a muchness. The toilets are fine of the close coupled variety but you may have fun getting the cistern and pan to seat well without leaking.

Wouldn't have MDF is a good idea. WBP Ply would be a better choice... Once used a few times the naturals sediments left by old plaster will create a barrier for additional loads.

I find it very convenient to use especially with slightly out of true walls. Less work that battening, and it still has its uses.

I've just invested in a 14" Ragni Stainless steel trowel recently to my collection. I also have an 11" one.

Isopropyl will break down most things!

You don't have to rip it all out, just find where he has Tee'd off from, this needs to be extended to feed from the main flow and return for the two additional rads. But again take all this with a pinch of salt we can only assume what is going on but from experience this is a common mistake a...

Those Iso valves wont be helping much, least they should be full bore which they don't look to be...

Find the main flow and return pipes, should be 22mm or 28mm, this is before the microbore. The two additional rads should not be feeding of the secondary 15mm/microbore circuit.

What kind of system have you got currently, boiler make model and number of Rads?

Always been a bit of a belt and braces man just have this fear of the ceiling coming down on me and all that hard graft skimming gone to waist! :lol:

Have you shut all other valves in the system to see if you can force it through the two rads only?

If its on a combi, isolate the flow or return and flush through with the mains until clear..ish.

You could also use a running trap or an in-line trap.

50mm mainly used for Urinals and Vent pipe. Can be used for long runs where 40mm is not wide enough. Go down to B&Q they do 50mm reducers if you get stuck.

As stated already there is little or no difference to a wheelhead valve to a L/S. In fact you could even use a TRV as a L/S if you have the correct cap. If you have got heat up to the flow and return pipes its a good start, you have a problem with the flow through the rads, either the boiler...

Moving into a new house and the previous occupants cladded the old ceiling with some tongue and groove. This could be to cover up some cracking or whatever. What I wanted to do to save ripping it all down was to overboard this with 12.5mm P/B then skim it. Only thing is the the cladding is...

Either a 22mm compression coupler female or elbow, then an appropriate sized bush 3/4" to 1/2" then a 1/2" to 1/4" unless you can find a 3/4" to 1/4" bush. Screw your pressure gauge into that.

This, I try to avoid the mortar bed if at all possible. I tend to drill a 10mm hole straight through first to give you a guide. This way you can drill from both sides and avoid major breakouts.

Also I'd leave a 2-3mm gap from the bottom of the tile to the edge of the shower tray, gives enough room to fill with silicone.

I had the same issue, It was never going to be used everyday but a tool that would be used. I also have a stash of 18V Makita bats so it made sense t obuy a cordless one to use with it. I am happy with that set up and the power is more than enough for my purpose.