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Cut out a piece of PB that size and glue it in place with either drywall adhesive or Gripfill or equivalent.

Indeed as well as saving those pennies... :wink:

You'd be a fool not to. I tend to use full bore too...

Don't forget to replace the lockshield with one with a drain off!

None of these quick fixes will likely last. If you want to save the tears later on do it properly remove the pan and get the new fitting in place. Not a big job really and peace of mind its not going to leak.

Budget? size? I got a 1/4" set from bosch for about £10, has Roman Orgee, round over, dovetail cutters and flat cutters and does what I need it to. Not supreme quality but good enough.

Short answer. Yes. Basically the drill knows no different, 12V, 18V is 12V, 18V to the drill. But if you want to be 100% sure check the Makita website to see if they are compatible... Personally I don't bother and have been swapping ni-cds for Ni-Mh for ages...

Pretty straight forward to cap off, however is there not an isolation valve to the outside tap? It should be able to be isolated in line with a double check valve. The tap may be fitted to the wall using a wallplate elbow. In which case unscrew the tap off and screw in a 1/2" stop end with a...

If you want a dedicated impact driver only then may I suggest a Trend Snappy T50. An excellent tool at a great price. ~£100. I would however go for a good bundle (Driver and impact) like one from Makita or Bosch. You can pick a decent setup within your budget...

I've got some cheap TCT bits for this purpose and works well with my Makita SDS, with hammer as well although I didn't need to use that on brick. With a diamond bit you don't use hammer, and its a slow speed with a core drill. I can justify buying a core drill and diamond bits just yet so this...

Firstly welcome! :D I will not be the only one to say this but those fast track courses are despised of here. If you want to do it, do it properly. To be a 'qualified' plumber the bare minimum I would say is a L3 NVQ. This will give you a good start however nowhere near 'qualified'. Being...

[/url] Hmm was always taught for anything less than 50mm pipe requires a min 75mm trap seal, I supopse that link is very reputable so...

The depth of seal is from the top of that bend to the bottom of the discharge as indicated...

Correct. That original trap looks like it only has a 38mm depth trap seal, only a trap with a 75mm trap seal can go straight into a soil stack. The second trap looks to have a 50mm trap seal but cant tell from here. the 38mm and 50mm traps are OK if going into a hopper.

Also you need to be extremely careful making any solid fixing of the pipe to the joist, such as clips.The floor will have far more traffic increasing the likeliness of fracture to any part of the pipe, joints even so. Some of the 'looser' methods of fixing would be ideal to allow some movement...

I've used regular zinc coated screws when I have been stuck before. Plastered over and no rust bleed through yet!

Tell me about it, I wished I stocked up more from SF when they were selling 20M of 15mm for £27! You wont get much change from 50 notes for the same at the moment :(

B&q are generally quite expensive but good that they stock for emergencies on a Sunday! PTS are very competitive if you have one nearby.

It is extremely important to get the preparations done properly. I took almost an hour to get a floor level as the boards were unlevel. I also put some 12mm WBP ply down and the tray on top. Nice and flat and tray level.

I've got a 50mm TCT bit, I never needed to use hammer, and it went straight through the brick. Had to be patient though. Hammer is OK as suggested but be careful these are cheap bits and the little TCT cutters can fall off!