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Probably not a bad idea to tank it, but I don't think it's an absolute necessity. It depends on the location, if it's an enclosed shower with no natural ventilation at all, then I'd like to see a slope in the ceiling anyhow, otherwise condensation builds up to such a level you have water...

Not quite sure what that gap is for, did Knauf enlighten you on that point?

Rake the grout our from around the tile you want to remove. Then break the tile from the centre outwards.

It depends on what make of adhesive you are using, and what the manufacturer of that adhesive recommends.

The nastiness of the product is the very thing that makes it good. It's designed for use in areas where high chemical resistance is required or where high levels of hygene are required. It's a two pack chemical that isn't designed to be removed, there are chemicals available that will...

Aquapanel still needs to be tanked to become a waterproof barrier, it's advantage is it is completely unaffected by any moisture or water penetration. No need to prime Aquapanel, it's desgined to be tiled on. Prime the plasterboard and any plaster though, it gives you much more open time...

You can get a stunning array of grout colours, white on floor is not sensible, the only time I ever use that is in an ensuite bathroom with white marble. HG produce a product called floor grout protector which is a paint on thing, never used it myself but had pretty good feedback about it...

Get it plastered, or dry line it. Plastering would be my prefered option here.

Use a good quality cement based adhesive and don't be tempted to stick the to paint, they will fall off.

Not good I'm afraid, what make is it? Unfortunately the only way to remove this is with an aggressive chemical. First port of call is the manufacturer, they usually know what disolves their product. If that's no good try these people:- http://www.extensive.co.uk/

There are fitting instructions on my website which follows:- http://www.atstone.co.uk/fitting.htm If your using Bal you'll need Rapid flexible white. Make sure the adhesive is white, it will stain the stone if it's not. If you've not got lithofin, don't worry, Fired Earth sell...

Aquapanel is a waterproof board, but it's not a waterproof barrier. This is a common misconception. Why are you layering the boards? Can you not use studwork to make up the depth difference. Plaster needs to be primered because there is a chemical reaction that can occur between the...

Difficult questions to answer without seeing the actual job and unreasonable to ask us to quantify someone elses work in this way, I will do my best to give objective comments, but discuss this with your builder, don't approach this using my reply as ammunition. A sand/cement screed is not...

try here for a suitable product: www.extensive.co.uk

I think they refer to them as Jackfield Tile Museum from memory? They've been operating htere for a few years now, you'll get no change from £80 sq/m for the plain white, and the lovely art deco style individual decorative tiles are around £35 each. They are somewhat more than run of the...

continuous rim diamond blade.

Sounds excessive, a good tiler will command netween £200 - £300 a day in central London, I'd suggest He didn't want the job, quoted an excessive amount and it was accepted. There is one manufacturer of these tiles in the UK, www.originalstyle.com Technically these people don't manufacture...

Do you have any spare tiles? If you do, pull them up, re cut and re fit. If you don't have spare tiles, then there really isn't any mess free way of cutting them, a diamond blade in a grinder is the only way, an that will only get you so close to the door frame.

I'd lay the tiles out dry and discuss with you what looks best. I can't answer your setting out problem without seeing the job. Your tiler should be happy to do this, but make a reasonably quick decision so He can get on with the job.

Go on to Google and search for Reclamation yards or agents or dealers. You'll be able to sell as a job lot and they'll probably collect.