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Install Aquapanel wherever there is a regular contact of water. Moving the bath and fitting aquapanel all the way down to the floor would be sensible if not absolutely necessary. The two plastered walls will probably be fine as long as they are primed correctly and away from any direct spray...

This is very unusual, if you need a DPM it must really go under the tiles. I'd get a second opinion, but I'm afraid that opinion would probably stretch to @pull it all up and put a proper DPM down' Epoxy over victorian tiles? not something I've ever come across.

Actually sticking to the asphalt isn't a problem, what's under that may also be important. Is it plywood or similar? Or is it a solid beam and block affair? Also what tile are you fitting? Ceramic, porcelain , natural etc...

Whoever sold you the stone should have provided you with this information. You'll need a white cement based adhesive designed specifically for use with natural products. Ideally Ardex S20W or BAL Marblefix. If neither of these area available then BAL CTF3 or Ardex X7 white. Prime any...

No, pull it up.

12mm WBP will be fine, but fit the tray before you tile and then tile around it. You'll need access to connect the waste anyhow. Fit w/c afterwards.

I second that, I usually support these trays on 4x2 timber braces then fit UPVC flat board around them, the curve does put the board under stress so it needs a screw in each end with a white screw cap just as masona says. After doing this for years this is bay far the best way of finishing...

Can you expand on the rubber paint please, naming the product would help.

You should construct the shower out of Aquapanel and tank this with BAL WP1 tanking system or similar. Do not skim any plasterboard that is being tiled. Any plaster should be clean and dust free. Prime any plaster or plasterboard with BAL APD or similar - do not use PVA. As long as...

I thought the tubs were generally around 15KG? A 22kg bag of powdered adhesive will give between 8 - 10 sq/m with a 7mm notch trowel, if your walls ar wobbly, then you use more etc.

Primer generally goes a long way unless you have appallingly dry walls. Mix it to spec and get yourself a paint tray and roller and off you go, it goes everywhere though, so plenty of sheeting if you have anew bath already fitted.

yep simple as that, but get it made once all the tiling is done, it can then be made to size perfectly.

Mapei have a good reputation and are as reputable as BAL or Ardex, however my personal knowledge of them ends there. My business is marble and limestone and I've found on the odd ocassiona I get staining in the stone from Mapei grout so I tend not to use it. For normal tiling I'd be happy...

These usually cut on a standard cutter unless of course you're trying to cut too little off each tile. Wet cutters just make a mess of them. Try a glaziers wheel to score them and a pair of snips to snap it. Not the easiest thing in the worl to cut, even with all the professional...

Read the following thread for specifications. http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34203 I usually get an oak threshold made to take up any difference in height between the newly tiled floor and carpet. A local wood yard make these for me, it provides a far better finish than any...

Re the floor tiling you have the following possible problems:- 1/ The substrate has not been prepared correctly and the tiles are moving, the cracking grout is due to localised movement. 2/ The wrong adhesives and grout have been used (non flexible). 3/ Both of the above It's highly...

Tile first then fit the toilet, not only is it far more professional in appearance but it's also far more hygenic. The only time I've ever tiled around a toilet is when it's been an existing vitorian number that was fixed to the cement floor with more cement.

This was covered on a other forum on which I post recently, the concensous of a few plasterers seemed to be yes you can with the correct preparation, but strongly advise against it.

Possibly, but it needs to be inspected, I can't answer specifics without actually seeing the problem, and even then it may only be an opinion rather than a diagnosis.

A 1960's Ferrari 250 GT California SWB. Cars from this era, particularly Ferraris are more than just cars, they are works of art, that's why one of these would cost you in excess of £1 million.