DIYnewbee99, Do you know how to mix s/c to the right texture for rendering or even brick laying ?
as getting your mix right is hardest part, applying it is much the same as any backing plaster,
You might use pva on the joint line of the old plaster,
you would be better off if you used a...
Any light weight block is a pig for shrinking and cracking, they can be float and set with either but if the blocks crack then it will crack
the finish plaster.
I wouldn't like to guess which is best at your expense, sorry.
The painted wall would be attacked with a scutch hammer to give the scratch coat a key, if you had a lot of painted walls
you would hire a needle gun or mesh them.
you wouldn't p v a brickwork, you would wet it down with a hose or you would scratch coat with a water proofer or both.
Second...
Yes, :lol:
In the 10 mm I brought a piece about a meter square or less, it is the square mesh that you see on a rabbit hutch door.
I stapled it on a wood box frame of 3 x 1 then put a inch square baten over the wire.
I made it long enough to rest on the sides of my barrow.
Well are you going to answer the riddle.
I made both of mine, one with a 4 mm wire mesh and one with a 10 mm wire mesh,
like you I did buy one but the didn't last long.
The small mesh was a fire guard, the 10 mm from a pet shop,
square mesh.
Rendering my walls true or flat if you like let me skim the adhesive on to the insulated board so its stuck flat and not on dabs,
then fixed with screws, this does give a much better soiled sound when knocked.
In your other post you say you are having your cavity walls filled this maybe enough to satisfy B/C as you have upped the insulation
value of your walls.
I agree with Micilin on this, ((It's not really his job to be aware of all the regs) (the onus is on the client to do this.)) be it private...
Its fine, he's brought the wood lintel out flush with the brickwork ready for a float coat and he's lowered the head to give you an even
window frame, looks like you're got a good plasterer who knows what he's doing.