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If they have been, do you know there name, the one who is over seeing your job, if so phone him and have a talk about it, they will go out of there way to help you, if you are honest and up front with them, they may be more lenient in staff's than they are here, My B/C bloke was going to let...

You could stick your sign on to a sheet of 4 mm mild steel plate and coach bolt it to the tree, the thin top edge ( :idea: grind it thinner but not sharp ) would make it painful to hang on to.

As rc says, they should be as a plasterer put them up but its not something that a good plasterer can't put right when he plasters.

Yes you should inform B/C, If you do then they will most likely make you insulate all exterior facing facing walls, I think it comes in if you remove 25% of the original plaster in any room, if they are not involved in any thing else you are doing you could say nothing.

When the shoots are in leaf get some roundup in a tub and dab it on the leaves with a sponge, you might have one more lot of shoots come up later to treat but it will kill the root and save you digging up your lawn.

Give your walls a good wet down the day before you want to plaster to rinse off the dust and damping the mortar between the stones, then before you plaster just give the wall a light mist to damping the stone, don't have your lime mortar to stiff it needs to be soft and fatty, its better to...

:lol: :lol:

Bring it in in blue and duct it through walls and floors, at least 700 mm deep outside, if its clean soil at the bottom of your trench then just cover it with sand before back filling, stoney ground then sand trench before pipe then sand over, if you have drains to go in and are going to cross...

If you want to core phone round the hire shops and see if they have one of these, http://www.priorityplant.com/HUSQVARNA-DM230-110V-DIAMOND-CORE-DRILLING-MOTOR/47.htm as theoldun says dry coring through rebar isn't good but there is a cheat, you drill your pilot right through and dry core...

Diamond core will do it.

It's been a while since I last used sds + , I've been thinking about it and its the collar you hit, you still keep the weight of the bit hanging downwards. As for greasing I've never heard of that, and as they grip by friction it kinds of defeat the point.

You've about got it, hold the shaft of one, point the bits downwards, smack the shaft of the lower bit, turn 180 and repeat.

Black or brown makes no difference.

Wait till you've tried Bret Martian chambers.

You put 110 mm bungs in the pipes and test the chamber, then leave a pipe unbunged at the chamber but put the bund in at the next chamber to test the run.

From what's been posted before on here it seems you could just cut the foam back flush, scrim it and skim it. I haven't tried it myself, yet. :lol: bonding would do for me, if you leave it for the next day before you skim seal it up with a coat of pva, have a read of other posts on using pva.

I know what you mean I render the upstairs brick wall here before I stuck insulated plasterboard to them and it does sound better, All I read about now is how bad it is for old places and stone built places to be sealed up with cement render, in my past I've render plenty and never hear any...

Oops, I missed that, :oops: ( foil ), John's right the foil won't stick. good job someone is with it. :lol:

I had to use insulated plasterboard on my outside walls so I stuck them on with drywall then drill through and plugged with the little yellow wall plugs I think they're 4.5 mm then used 65 / 70mm plasterboard screws to secure it, I read Richard c post the over day about using frame fixings for...

is this correct? Yes. If you use insulated plasterboard why not just batten the wall and not render it.