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Blôôdy hell Richard that was a rough old time, I hope luck swings the other way for you. I didn't realize you was sixty. :shock:

Duct tape, mask up your oak with this so your finish plaster lapps over the edge of the duct tape, next day go round the plaster line edge with a Stanley knife and cut through the duct tape, peel off the duct tape to leave a nice clean line.

Bottom to top :shock: If I'd laid a trowel full on the bottom of a wall before I'd laid the top in I'd of got my lug slapped so hard I'd of been off my feet.

I've got a 18v Milwaukee for home use, at work I use an 18v Dewalt and Hitachi and the Milwaukee is the far better drill.

I've had that once when I put the priming coat on a distemper painted room, by the time I got all the way round with pva it had blistered up, while the pva was still damp I just scraped the whole room using my rendering trowel like a wide paint scraper, it came off real easy whilst damp.

Ahhhh,, now that'll be Merlin's Mutton :? :lol: :lol: :lol:

And the prize goes to Ian2008.

same here.

I think she's muddle over the use of pva, but I could be wrong.

The ceiling is fibre board and I wouldn't plaster on to that it will most likely sag as it gets damp from the plaster. if you can't take it down then over board it with 12.5 mm plaster board. back to you rich'.

Yup, you need to warm that hose up, I use a gas blow lamp :oops: but hot water is the right way.

No, you need to scratch coat the walls and at least let the scratch coat pull in, ( hardened) before you put your float coat over it. You need to kill the suction with the scratch coat so your float coat cure / dry slowly, you can leave your scratch coat for days before you do your float coat...

If you are using hydraulic lime then you don't usually add cement, and your mix should be about 3&1 with hydraulic lime being the 1 and a semi-sharp to sharp sand. Have a search on hydraulic lime mortar and you'll find some good info on what mix you'll need.

The long edge goes across the joists, you cut your short ends to fit to the middle of the joists, if you start with a full board on the first row then you start with a half sheet on the second row, like a brick bond.

They also show me how to use the nice new plastic quarter-turn tap which was outside in the pavement. :lol: :lol:

I sure they were done with cane, like the wicker chair type cane.

The one that's proud hit it in with a hammer then put a new one in about an inch away to hold the ceiling. Hi rich.

Its a old land drain.

A bit like whipped cream.

Bolo, If you've got a corded drill with variable speed you could use that but have a few practise goes first. I've done it a few times when the old battery has gone flat, it can be a little fierce though.