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I used to work out the bucket too then realised how easy it is with a spot board, I don't know if its me the spread seems to last that bit longer too?

As you say can be done with hand tools. You can make it easier with the use of an SDS drill/breaker. A 5Kg one will channel through that no problem. You could also stitch drill the channel out then knock it out with a hammer and chisel.

Qualified is a relative term, do plumbing jobs etc , I do have an NVQ in it however its not my trade though. I'm an infrastructure engineer.

Was using one of these for a few hours and couldn't get used to it, the balance was all wrong. This is from an avid Makita fan though however :wink:

Nah not Gas safe registered yet! :D

Bleeding the system wont do any harm to your Expansion vessel. If you are concerned it may be let some air out the valve, if it squirts some water out its toast.

I wouldn't bother extending the 22mm for the basins, will be fine with a 15mm run. 22mm is a requirement for the bath the rest can be 15mm. However If it is a open vented system you may need to reconsider this set up...

What system have you got currently? Try run the 22mm under the floor then Tee into it with 15mm for the basin hot and cold.

Adding a TRV wont cause the pressure loss, if you are certain there are no leaks from any of the glands etc... maybe some of the pipes wewre disturbed at a place where its not obviously visible?

Make sure you protect the pipe if doing this too or use the correct grade of copper (Table Y).

I'd be looking for a leak somewhere at the first instance...

wow thats something I'd lilke to achieve but I'm far from that yet!

The nature of the pump as the bearings fail or the rotor fails. Does it spin when you manually turn it?

Not off the mains, thats higly illegal.

Your talking of flow rate dont mix it with pressure. Your reducing flow since its being used elsewhere, unfortunately you have to live with that.

What kind of system have you got? sealed or open vented. If the former just use the filing loop and put the inhibitor in one of your rads upstairs. if the latter you can fill most through a hose from either your Flow or Return then tip the inhibitor into your F&E tank.

Careful when you do cut the pipe, very easily deformed and to get a good solder joint will be difficult. Use a junior hacksaw for minimal disruption to the pipe, debur, clean, flux up and solder!

If its all the rads and you want to be safe drain down. If its just the upstairs rads then just drain the upstairs rads.

Nice work! :D Get some pics up of the end result.

I've always been a belt and braces man as I'm sure many others are too so I just tend to use screws for just about anything. Nails just seem so clumsy, prone to splitting timber etc and just seems to me not a solid fixing method. Slotted screws still have their uses however I keep little or...