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I reckon an FAQ on the tools section would prove useful for such requests...

It should outlast copper. Although my only suspicions will be the rubber O rings that will perish well before the plastic pipe. Also anything less than barrier pipe is pointless regardless if it is being used for heating or not.

Don't you charge them up then take the voltage, the one not showing any could be the duffer. Stick it on one of the DCV settings, then you just move the decimal to a more readable setting.

Brown plugs, number 10 screws. Are you complicating things here OP?

The voltage does not represent the power for cheap tat like that '24V' drill. I suspect my 9.6V makita will easily outperform that. There is only one option for you and I'm surprised Big Al isn't here yet! Ryobi. Have a look in B&Q they had a twin pack 12V for about that budget. That will be...

Could be laid in first fix. longest I've been able to do is 2 metres only because I had access to the adjacent room and it was big enough. Like people have mentioned perfectly doable if you need to.

I was really tempted to buy the naked body for this as I have the Li-Ion batts. The limitations of the hex chuck really put me off.

I wouldn't want to do that with a recip saw! I suppose with plenty of quality blades and patience it is possible. We are talking a lot of patience! I'd give the recip saw breaks too to cool down.

Chances are its a bathroom, top floor, chances of air in that rad. All things considered you could get away with it... I wouldn't normally do it on a rad downstairs but the fact that its a towel rad with the vent on top and its an upstairs rad you wont get gushes of water out of it.

Live on the edge once in a while eh :wink: plumbers time is money get in get the job done and get out... if you have the knack, same outcome less work. :D

If your quick I wouldn't even bother locking off the valve. Undo the vent then with your finger used as a bung replace rubber and screw the vent back in.

Widely regarded as one of the best out there, you will find a lot of plumbers opting for this choice. I have the Bernzomatic TS7000, in essence the exact same torch but cheaper...

I've seen a sort of nozzle which can be used with MAPP gas which i was interested in some while back. I do minimal lead work so would be ideal for me.

Go for propane, easier to control for enthusiasts. I prefer MAPP, gets hotter quicker and cheaper in the long run as you only need to use a small amount of gas.

Laco for me. As for wearing gloves I understand where Happyplumber is coming from. I personally find it a bit of a hindrance when soldering, I like to be agile and get good feel of the solder when applying, the gloves take that away from you. I guess when getting older I will maybe start looking...

Either 1/2" or 3/4"...

With a max torque of 400Nm it should have easily coped with that. Transit nuts don't tighten up to anything more than that! They are not frigin hub nuts! :lol: Hub nuts go up to a max of about 250Nm on normal cars, my 1 Meter breaker bar has not failed me yet...

These are terrible to use, I got sucked into the hype with them with the new fangly design. I like the classic Knipex 250's.

Yeah that one looks like it may too... Similar to the shut off valves on your boiler. Always use a hex key! The worst is when someone paints over the beggers!

I only got Bahco adjustables 8", 10" and 12". I wouldn't buy anything else from them. They are solid. Knipex waterpump pliers are excellent although the Rothenberger ones I use just pip them to it I think.