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of course.

All the wires except the earth must be sleeved in brown or red sleeving to identify them as 'LIVE' conductors. the link

That red wire in the first picture is a strapper and need to go from L to L of the new switch. The two grey's go in either of the L1's

Pictures would help. Did the old switch have a little wire going from 'com' of one switch to 'com' of the other :?:

NICEIC do a very good book on testing and inspection which also guides you through filling in their forms. And a recent addition is a DVD on inspection and testing. Just like driving, you will learn much more from the experience you get after you pass. NICEIC are not ogre's, they want to make...

As a rough guess, I would say that the CPC is disconnected from the installation (probably at the ceiling rose) and is picking up an induced voltage from the phase and neutral running along side it. Only a proper examination with a meter will prove this is so but you might like to check the...

In my experience, pub electrics can be a nightmare with boards all over the place. As its likely to have had a PIR at some time (I hope) you should have the test results with the board locations.

RCBO's take up the same space as MCB's, i.e. one slot.

P.S. please don't say you have one of those neon screwdrivers.

This forum exists to assist you with DIY, the problem you describe is a little more complicated than the usual DIY question. Do you have a multimeter capable of measuring voltage and continuity to tenths of ohms? Have you any way of testing the MCB? Have you an instument capable of measuring...

I have just aquired a Canon Fax-B100 minus its manual and being a cheapskate, I want to download one for free. Can anyone point me to a site that does free ones. And yes I have found ones that charge, just thought there maybe a generous soul out there like me.

If you don't care about the cost you could replace all your MCB's with RCBO's then no matter what circuit is affected it will only trip that circuit.

MST's right, with what you describe you will need to call someone in, preferably a competent and registered spark. Maybe the MCB was damaged when it 'blew'.

Good call! A man's gotta know his limitations.

With the power to the circuit disconnected, connect a multimeter, on ohms range, across phase and neutral an look for a short circuit (low ohms reading). Then switch off each light switch in turn, until the short disappears.

The only purpose of capping, whether plastic or metal is to protect the cables from the plasterers trowel. if you are concerned about protection, conduit is the best route. There is cable available with a thin earth sheath which would also afford shock protection.

It will work via a 13amp plug but if the manufacturer has specified a double pole switch then I suspect they may know what they are asking for. Of couse you could use a 13amp plug plugged into a double pole switched socket outlet, have you one of those?

Roll on the 17th edition, supplementary bonding has always been overkill and sometimes unsightly. German regs allow a socket in the bathroom but sensibly there is a minimum distance requirement from the bath. Makes our regs that allow a socket right outside the bathroom door, no matter how...

DOUBLE WHAT!!! Since when??

Had a power cut a month or so ago and when it was restored the supply measured 163V between phase and nuetral, very odd but just enough to power lights and TV but not the freeview box.