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Hot air gun, brute force, and a couple of paint scrapers did the trick for me :) Keep the gun away from the glass though, you might crack it.

1) I don't believe in sealing damp problems with non-penetrable membranes. I believe in the long term they cause far more problems than they solve. 2) Read my posts, you'll see I mentioned something similar. I'm not an expert, but I do like to offer my (sometimes) misguided but...

I'd take a guess that the slate roofs are original, and the tiles are not, and that the weight of the tiles has in part caused the collapse.

Wouldn't this also be subject to the Party Wall Act?

As Chappers said, shouldn't a terraced roof be slate normally? Sounds to me like the builder is playing on people's fears. Roofs don't normally collapse without good reason?

Personally I can't stand the water based stuff, its a swine to strip back off.

I tiled wall to wall, the last thing you want if you replace a kitchen is to have to retile the floor. Just make sure you leave enough time between tiling and fitting the cabinets for the floor to set in place.

Thats water getting in the gaps and soaking into the wood, that is. The beading should be on the inside. I'd get the company that fitted them back, and ******* the living daylights out of them. If you leave those doors like that, eventually you'll have to cut the rotten sections out and...

To free them I used a heat gun and scraper to get the cack out from the corners, from then on it was brute force :) If you want to take the sashes out, its dead easy. Around the inside of the frame you'll find a nice fat bead. Just pull it off - be careful because you'll want to reuse it if...

Tell your friend to warn her child in no uncertain terms that if he runs near that door, he'll get either a spanked arse, or sent to bed with no supper.

http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/sashwindows/sashwindows.htm http://www.bricksandbrass.co.uk/diyelem/windows/winsashbasic.htm Its not that difficult really, I sorted my front sash windows out, although to be fair they were painted shut and neglected for donkey's years. Check...

I presume you're talking about panes that are large enough for someone to climb through? My door has 2 panes, long slim vertical gaps in the edwardian style. If yours is the variety with one pane above and one pane below the handle, you could always remove both, and replace the lower one...

Or find a local carpenter to make one for you.

Airbrick blocked?

Yep. The cast iron coal burning children eating fireplace I just installed has been there for years. The wiring I'm about to do in my new bathroom was done over Christmas. Funny that, isn't it? Got a window to fit soon as well, do you think I give a **** about some *******s regulation?

IF you put handles on things, you'd have a spate of injury claims from people who tried to lift a 30kg weight on their own, and did their back in :)

Have you tried wax or oil? A bit more expensive, but much kinder to the wood, brings out more of the grain, and smells nicer too :)

You might have to buy riser hinges for the doors, unless they already have them.

Thats pretty much it, there are no downpipes (the neighbouring property has plastic guttering and a plastic downpipe). He went up to repair the join between the houses a few months ago, with the intention of replacing it, only to find that it was in perfect health, and why spend money for...

My alarm system uses a different coding of wires for every single device. You'd better check that yours doesn't before you wire everything in. Would the 2 extra wires be a tamper-switch?