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If the pump requires 5 amps what would be left to feed the lights? Feed the pump from a Fused Connection Unit with a 5amp fuse. Connect this off a outlet on the ring main.

HO5 RR-F http://www.sellec.com/pages/ho5rr.htm HO5 W-F http://www.sartra.com/normal_duty_flexible_cords.htm The old flex is higher.

Crimp a new piece of 1.mm twin and earth to the old cable and wrap the joint in amalgamating tape. Use ratchet crimpers, not the squeeze and pray type.

2100W is approx 9 amps. So you can connect into the cooker connection unit behind the cooker. To be safe I would add a sigle socket and plug the cooker directly into it, this will afford the cooker protection from the plug top fuse which should be 10amps

Try glow worms and cellotape. Very cheap to run, just the odd leaf to chew.

The main use of capping is to protect the cables from the plasterers trowel. Regs allaw cable to be unprotected as long as they are run horizontally or vertically from an accessory.

Single pole is still acceptable.

Cables enclosed in insulation have a lower current carrying capacity and thus the specification for the circuit when designed will have been affected. Worst case senario, cables can over heat and cause a fire. If possible lay the cables on top of the insulation. If in doubt get an electrician to...

Not a good idea to have the oven on the RCD side of the consumer unit, assuming you have a a split load CCu. Get your electrician to move it to the other side of the board. Electric rings can get 'leaky'. Also you might have the appliance insulation tested.

Although I am not as old as you, I can go one better, I used to work on 7 inch floppies!! P.S. 55 this year

You little beauty Mike, it all comes back to me now. I owe you one. Thanks

Sounds like your 'Main Breaker' is a RCD. Has it a 'test' or 'T' button? If so you might like to consider converting to a split load board and putting the cooker circuit on the Non RCD protected side. In the meantime you will need to fault find the oven. Sorry no other alternative.

Thanks for the reply Igorian, but that was my first port of call. Oh for a manufacturer that gives the info needed. All they give is how to add additional memory or fonts. Even the trouble shooting does not list how to's. All I want is the sequence to enter the Comms setup. Cold reset is hold...

Dummy that I am, I did a cold reset on my laserjet II and it has defaulted to serial comms. Its been years since I worked on these wonderful old work horses and my memory has failed me. Any one out there who can remember?

So if your down the shed in the winter and you trip the RCD, you have to stumble back up the garden in the dark to reset the supply, you might like to have the RCD at the shed end.

2.5 Kilowatts of lighting is a little OTT suggest he thinks about using 150W lamps. Replacing is faily straight forward, just make sure the earth loop impedance is whithin the maximum allowed by BS7671 for the breaker that protects the circuit.

This has all been covered several times on this forum and search in the ref section will show you what you need to know. Basically you need to identify which of those cables is the switch wire and its plain sailing from there.

Have I entered the twilight zone or has no one thought to check the value with a meter, seems obvious to me. And if you haven't got one, should you consider another career?

No regs just good practice. It has been known for conductors to be not held securely if not doubled. Conductors doubled ensures that if the terminal screw goes between them it can't pull out.

Ah right. bend over cables 2.5mm and below if only one conductor in the terminal. If two or more conductors leave them straight