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My experience of this is here.. http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/ferolli-optimax-he-31c.424526/#3297414 andytw

Hi, Does an Armitage syphonic cistern have to have an Armitage aspirator. I see aspirators branded as Syvac and Thomas Dudley, can these be used on Armitage ? Also realise the washer is the usually failing part. Would you expect to get parts at a plumbers merchants ? Toolstation stock...

Correct, and we are talking about when the system is cold.

The copper pipe is where excess pressure is relieved by the pressure relief valve, PRV. This pipe should not be dripping. As previously posted the PRV is probably now not sealing properly after having being opened by the previous excess pressure. The plastic pipe is where the boiler discharges...

If you pressurise the vessel to 1 Bar and fill the system to 1 Bar then you will have the whole of the volume of the expansion vessel for the heated water to expand into. By filling the system to 1.5 Bar then you have already used up quite a lot of the required space. I think you will have used...

My first thoughts are about warranty then servicing and then repairing. Could you get any or all of these in the future ? andytw

Can the front case be removed without RGI/Gas Safe/whatever to check the expansion vessel ? Thanks

I think it would be OK at 0.5 Bar. Also I do not think you have a fill pipe installed between the 2 black taps that you turned.

Just wondering if there is a preferred method of centralising a basin tap if the hole in the basin is a bit big, so that the washer wants to slip into the hole rather than sit equally all around the hole ? andytw

Out of the valve. It's only a car valve, nothing special.

Meters are often read by people from different companies. You need to get the meter read, rather then speculating about the pilot light or the neighbours using your gas.

If your kettle is not on and heating water then it would not be drawing any current. No harm, though, in removing everything that is plugged into that circuit. I think, personally, I would be looking to get the MCB swapped. Do you have a room stat ? Is the MCB tripping once the room stat...

And there will be a fuse in the boiler itself. I do not know if that protects the whole of the boiler, others on here will know. But that is just another pointer to it not being the boiler at fault. andytw

What fuse is in the switched spur ? I would make sure it is a 5A then test again. I would expect the MCB that is tripping is 30A. If the MCB still trips rather than the fuse blowing in the spur then I would be looking outside the boiler. Faulty MCB is unlikely but not out of the question. Is...

Is it an individual MCB that trips or is it the earth leakage trip ? Just wondering if it is not the boiler but something external, e.g pipe touching a cable. Bit of a longshot, I know. Other thing that might be of interest could be the room stat. andytw

If the insert has ceramic discs, then you can get just the discs from eBay. andytw

No interest in doing this but just been reading an advert, and I have some questions. Are they lit 24x7 ? Is there a preferred heating method, rads or underfloor ? Does a house have to be a certain size before it is a serious option ? Just wondering ! andytw

The wire on N is Neutral and is used to allow the programmer to run itself from the mains. You will not be using this wire. It should be terminated safely. Connect your new programmer to the other 2 wires, those on Live and the connector you called O14. I think you will find it is Q14...

What are the markings for the connections on the baseplate from left to right. The second from the left is marked 'L', I can see that. andytw

What you want to install is battery powered. It is probable that what was installed took power from the cable. To be able to assist you more you need to specify what the original programmer model is, rather than just "an old programmable room stat". andytw