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So it has one cable coming in from the CU possibly one going out to the next lamp/switch, and a cable going to the lamp it controls? With the blues/blacks in a choc block, the brown/red in either side of the switch? I ask because many people see a red & black (or brown and blue) behind a...

Is the bedroom switch a "loop in switch" arrangement? If not, you can't "feed" the switch from it, as there won't be a neutral. There are diagrams of the various lighting wiring arrangments here.

No. But I would supply a socket from the final circuit that supplies a door entry PSU. :roll:

Dave, leaving aside the issue of your (superbly demonstrated) complete lack of understanding of what bonding is, what it does, how it does it, and why it's needed, please quote from this (now nine page) thread anywhere where anyone has said that bonding is not important or neccesary. Thanks.

There's no need for that sort of language - although nice work getting it past the the censor. I will continue to call you Banal, as not only is it a shortened version of your username, the adjective perfectly describes you - Common in a boring way, to the point of being predictable...

OK, maybe "mechanical load" was the wrong term. "SY should be properly glanded so as to provide strain relief via the braid."

No it will not! The voltmeter is measuring ONE voltage at a time. When it measures the voltage, the phase of the voltage is not referenced to anything - the voltmeter doesn't 'know' that there's another voltage along the circuit out of phase with the one it's measuring - it's just a...

D'oh, D'd'oh D'oh D'oh! :oops: :lol:

Yes I am. 100%

11kV 8)

Why would the difference in phase angle cause the voltage to be measured higher? We are measuring two separate voltages, independently, at two separate points in a circuit. 10v is 10v no matter what it's phase relationship to the 6v along the way - a voltmeter doesn't even know or care about...

If it is going in to an enclosure, it really should be glanded properly, to ensure that the mechanical load is on the braid. As long as you use glands with a reverseable olive (one way for SWA, the other for copper braid) it is very easy.

Good point Mikey, I hadn't considered that. For me, that is the most serious aspect of this - many sparks don't fully understand bonding, and it will be such a shame for a spark to try to improve their knowledge, only to end up reading this crap. Also, Mr Penisscorch's "debating" style...

For crying out loud Banal, please give it a rest! What exactly are you trying to achieve? For all new DIYers to the forum to go "screw that, I thought I'd get some advice on the best way to do a job, but I won't bother now and will just crack on regardless" - great. :roll: As you have...

Hmmmm. Do you actually have fuse holders rather than circuit breakers? On a split-load board? I know Hager do still make fuse holders for their CUs, but I can't imagine why anyone would have installed them. Anyway, you need to find out what the power requirements are of your new hob and oven...

It sounds like the permanent line and switched line are both connected together to the fan. (assuming a timer fan) The perm line should come from the load side of the SFCU, the sw line should come from after the lightswitch (same as the sw line to the light) If it's not a timer fan, then...

Goodness gracious me. If this poster is for real, blimey. Dave, with each post you show how confused you are about this subject. Also, you are arguing against something you have imagined - no-one on here has suggested that bonding is not necessary, indeed it is because we DO fully...

Report him to the GSR - that is appalling workmanship. (Although one has to ask why didn't the customer pick up on this before the final bill was settled?)

Radials are definitely the way forward, don't even think about rings.

Yep. A lot of that DPC does strike me as changes for the sake of changes. (or rather, changes for the sake of keep us in jobs) :roll: