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Yes. In a TT installation every circuit needs RCDing at no more than 100mA - this is because the EFLI is so high that an MCB wouldn't trip even with a hard L-E fault. :!:

Well gas fitters use them, so yes! :lol: Also get some 5amp terminal blocks, and a length of the cheapest wire you can find (bell wire probably) long enough to reach from one switch to the other (so you can test between the two).

That's the issue - some of them will be going from switchplate to switchplate, some of them will be coming from the light fitting(s). Without know which is which it's impossible to advise you further. I'm afraid you either need a multimeter or an electrician. If you get a multimeter, you...

Erm, why not just mount the FCU inside the house next to the existing socket? This would allow you to use 1.5mm SWA, and only need one run of it. Yes, the glands MUST be earthed. Use an earth banjo or piranha nut inside the boxes and connect it to the CPC. PS. Whilst there are many on...

Right then. :) The first switchplate and the LH switch on plate 2 should be wired together as I have said. This then links the two switches and is the basis for your two-way switching circuit. You now need to find the live feed to the switch, and the switched-live return back to the light...

First switchplate - Com = red, L1 = black, L2= black Middle switchplate LH - Com = red, L1 = black, L2 = black (it doesn't matter which way round the blacks go) So the thrid switchplate hasn't been touched at all - it is all original? But the bottom hall light is permanently on, regardless...

Right, you probably do have the strappers coming in from the first switch coming in on the lefthand conduit. Connect these the same as the first switch. You then need to find the live feed and switched live for the top hall light. Once you find them connect them to L1 and L2 - in with the...

Put the red in COM and a black each in L1 and L2.

Thanks for the photos, but please can you explain a bit more clearly which switch controls which light, ie "Switchplate one, LH hand switch = top hall light". Is there a light which is controlled by three switches?

Unlucky my son. Keep on bashing away though, summat will come up. Have you been back in touch with the agency you subbied for?

You have seriously buggered something up here I'm afraid. I'm guessing you didn't take photos or make a diagram of the old switch connections before you ripped it out? All may not be lost, take and upload photos of the wiring behind the switch, the other switch for the light, and the wiring...

Shave the bottom half-inch off your bathroom door. If there's no way for air to get in, even the most powerful fan you can find won't do much.

It all went wrong when they abolished corporal punishment. A few canings never did me any harm, that's for sure. Kids today don't know they're born. In my day their was none of this "political correctness" or whatever the lefties call it, just good honest education. A prayer to start off the...

Exactly.

This is like reading the bloody Daily Heil..... :roll:

Are you auditioning for "Grumpy old men"? :lol:

Hmmmm, I see what you're getting at. With N & E combined for a few feet it could be argued that it's TN-C-S. But the DNO guy will just say it's TN-S and tell you to wind your neck in.

Is it some kind of lighting suppressor or summat? :?:

Nope. You can't tell the DNO how to configure their equipment. If there's a separate earth and neutral conductor from the star point of the tranny (which is rodded down) then it's TN-S. End of story mate.

You are a pathetic little man, Banal.