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That's a fair one! I'm such a dinosaur! :lol:

I agree with Danny's (albeit badly written) post, something doesn't sound right here. "This property owes us money so we won't reconnect unless you give us a £1100 bond" So when you come to leave and this debt is still outstanding, you reckon they're going to repay you this bond, when the...

Good thinking Batman! :D

Well I should really have said "that only you would do", as knowing that you've got a 32a ceeform on your bloody cooker...... :roll: It is a daft and pointless idea. If you're going to chop the plug off an appliance, just use a flex outlet. ("Blah blah blah but but but isolation when the...

Please stop calling MCBs "switches" or "fuses". Thanks. Get some photos. What MCB turned the light off (rather than switching the RCD which does the whole bank)?

TN-C-S PNB?

Yep. That's exactly what I wanted to say. Dunno how it appeared like that... :oops: Anyway, Eric's suggestion is the simplest, and they are often the best. :)

I don't find "plug socket" anywhere near as bad as other phrases. The socket is for a plug, ergo "plug socket" isn't too bad IMHO. (the socket in which an eye sits is after all called an "eye socket") Far better than people refering to socket outlets as "plugs" :evil: now THAT is annoying and...

Yes but no one is ever going to do that because it's a stupid idea that only you have come up with (and I bet even you wouldn't do it!) :)

Don't you need double pole RCD protection on a TT, even if it's at 100mA rather than 30mA? I've not seen many DP RCBOs, not in the UK anyway (common in Johnny Foreigner Eruotown though). And if there's a 100mA incomer the OP has the option of MCBs if conditions allow.

You don't have a choice. If you're on a TT installation you MUST have RCD protection on ALL circuits as the Earth Fault Loop Impedance is too high to cause enough current to flow under fault conditions to operate the OPD (ie cause the MCB to trip) However, this calls for 100mA RCD, not the...

You don't need a fuse in the switch module. You're going to be feeding a socket with it, so there'll be a fuse in the plugtop of the appliance.

You can either use a cooker control unit, or a dual backox and fit a single socket next to the switch. Assuming the feed to the switch isn't a spur of course.

Yes.

Your present supply will be enough to run both items, BUT: You must check the manufacturer's instructions to see what fusing the oven requires. IF it says it can go on a supply protected at 30/32/40amps, then fine, get a double outlet plate. BUT IF it says it needs to be fused at 13amps...

So bedroom 1's light worked even with the lighting MCB off? That's not good. You either have that lighting fed from a socket circuit or the downstairs lighting circuit. Turn other MCBs off one at a time and see what one causes the light to go out. As for the earth wire earthing out on a...

If it's a ring circuit on 2.5mm then a B32 is the norm. Something's not right here. Was it a proper, qualified electrician that did this job, did he give you an Electrical Installation Certificate?

Well the MCB is knackered and you'll have to get a new one. :roll:

16amps is certainly not enough for a kitchen. Is this a 2.5mm radial? If it is, then it should be OK on a B20, but it depends how the cable is installed. Even then, 20a isn't really enough for a kitchen. Ideally, I'd have a 20amp radial for appliances (W/M, D/W etc) and another 20amp...

What won't reset, an MCB on an RCD? If it won't reset even with the mainswitch off, then you'll need a new breaker. PS. I don't like the sound of those brittle cables, are they sheathed in rubber?