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Star point! :idea:

There's either a fault to the pipework and the pipes aren't bonded, or there's an earth fault somewhere but a very poor (or non-existent) earth. PS. It could well have been 230v, the magnitude of the belt depends on many more factors, so you can't make such a statement.

erm, Mags, the colours relate to the size of the crimps, they are not for conductor identification!

That is a terrible, terrible design. The regs recommend that any fixed load over 2kW should have its own dedicated circuit. I'm guessing your immersions are 3kW, which is bang on the limit of 13a. Having an immersion heater on a ring is bad, having two of them on the same ring is awful...

There is far far less vitriol and nastiness in this thread than there is in most of Banal's replies to DIYers.

Good advice. Or if you ain't got an Avo, use your DMM but with some kind of load (like a lamp) in parallel.

Robin Hood rides again! :D

If you're wanting non-PIR control for the remainder of the lights you'd need a multigang (possibly grid) arrangement switch plate switching system to control the local lighting circuit regarding the luminaires to which you refer. Are you planning low voltage or extra low voltage accessories?

Unfortunately this photo is completely inaccurate, as it shows Banal in an industrial setting. The hard hat and screwdriver are a dead giveaway. Banal is almost certainly employed in a very dull office environment, probably in a very minor junior management position, yet his tiny speck of...

You need to learn yourself some sums, mate. If I was a customer who received an EIC containing your calculations I would not be best pleased.

Do the MI state that? Are they saying that the supply must be fused at 20a? Could you supply that machine on a 63a radial? What do the MI actually say?

No we don't.

Don't waste your money on these poxy courses. If you understand what you're doing and know how to do it properly, then just do the work and ignore all the part-p nonsense. If you don't know what you're doing, then these daft courses won't help you, so get a spark in to do the work. Don't...

Utter *******s. Get a grip of yourself my son. If the potential of your neutral differs by more than a few volts to local earth potential, then don't be fannying around posting on DIY forums, GET YOURSELF ON THE BLOWER TO THE DNO! If we are to play your pedantic game, I suppose you thin a...

Right-ho mate, I think you've fallen for an all too common misconception here. "Fire rated" doesn't mean that the downlighter won't cause a fire when it's covered in insulation, it means that it restores the fire barrier of a "fire rated" ceiling after you've drilled a big hole in it! This...

Following on from this thread, I have heard it said that manufacturers CANNOT rely on the circuit OPD to protect their appliance from overload - ie the plugtop fuse on a toaster of the MCB in the CU for a cooker CANNOT be used as part of the manufacturer's design for overload protection. Put...

You'd have to be FOOKIN' good to get a nail through the gaps in the braid on a small SY! As for split-con not being earthed all the way round, the other half being the neutral - well that's the whole point - the picture-hanger's nail will be in contact with EITHER earth or the neutral...

:?: :?: :?: Eh? If the PFC if 10kA then the PFC is 10kA. That's like asking if it is allowed to rain on a Sunday. :roll: The question is can your OPDs as installed handle that PFC.... :idea:

No idea. Obviously it's no good for switch drops, but it's a damn sight easier to work with and more practical than SWA. It's still good enough for DNOs to bury under main roads, but not good enough for us to use under a bit of plaster. :roll:

Outstanding suggestion! There doesn't seem to be any consistency with regards to which cables are deemed suitable for concealed (<50mm) runs without RCD protection. There are various approaches which ensure that a nail etc would be in contact with earth before it hits a phase conductor...