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that is almost guaranteed to be 28mm, otherwise you won't get the gas flow rate with an acceptable pressure drop. The only way I could see you getting away with 22mm is by increasing the regulator pressure at the meter and that is not exactly legal.

flow rate is really dependent on the delta T across the boiler. You might find in summer you get a marginally higher flowrate than in winter - as the water is colder.

I am surprised you've had a leak with speed fit, usually if the O-ring is undamaged and the pipe is all the way home it seals well. My preference is Hep2O - I think the design is better and a similar type of design has been used on the continent since the 1980's Copper has its place but I...

All I can say is every other EU country has protected the title "Engineer", I think it is shameful that the government allows joe bloggs the cowboy to plaster the title on the side of his van and then use it. The title doctor is protected, I don't see why Engineer cannot be. As far as I...

I think you meant "career". I know a lot of people who are not Gas safe registered who come along do the job and then pay some plumber they are friendly with to sign their work off. This practice is somewhat frowned upon but a way get around the system. I would suggest you take a trip to...

This sounds like the TRV is switching the rad off. Try taking the TRV off or is it set to "unregulated"

Apart from the amount the valve opens, the only other thing that could limit it is the amount of water in the cistern. Last time I fitted one of these the overflow pipe was adjustable, I had this maxed out so it was well above what it said in the instructions. Have you tried adjusting the...

Isolate both sides and then nip down to screwfix and get some fischer repair fixing. it will work well provided you hoover out the screw holes. If you don't know what you are doing, I'd suggest getting a plumber in, otherwise you could empty your central heating water all over your floor.

if you take the lid off the panel, the alarm would go off, entering your code will silence the alarm. Depending on how it was programmed, you may need an "engineer" to reset the system. This can be overrided by defaulting the panel but then you will lose all of your settings.

I would get the vaillant.

In Canada the systems might be slightly different but over here in the UK, we have VItotrol. This system uses only one set point, either the external weather compensation or the internal room temperature. It does not evaluate both measurements at the same time, its one or the other. If I...

Quinn, rettig purmo or stelrad

If the OP has a non condensing boiler, he or she will still get the benefit because it is more efficient to heat a large surface area at lower temperature. If he or she has a condensing boiler the lower flow temperature will keep the boiler condensing more and thus will have double benefit...

I don't think its carp at all. I would use plastic over copper every time for a number of reasons: 1. No hot work required, so it does not matter if there is still some moisture in the line. 2. Reduced number of fittings as the pipe bends. 3. Pipe does not "clang" as it doesn't expand as...

I would actually spec slightly larger radiators than you actually need on 50 flow 30 return, this is primarily for two reasons. 1. Winters appear to be getting more extreme despite global warming! 2. You can run a lower flow temperature, this is a more efficient way to heat a building and if...

hep2o for me. CE

Out of the two that you've mentioned I would go for the vaillant. My personal favourite of the month is the Remeha Avanta, well designed, fairly cheap and 35 fitted and only 1 callback on a loose shrader valve.

As far as Combi's go and big ones at that, I would only recommend one, Remeha Avanta 39C. If like the other two posters have pointed out, you have the pressure and a decent flow rate, this is a very good piece of kit. If you want to go down the unvented cylinder route, I would suggest you...

hard is a relative term and its not usually the boiler change thats the issue, its the other items such as pipework that tend to be a problem. The main difference will be your new system will be pressurized and depending on what your installer is going to do, the pump and valves may become...

even with an angle grinder, unless its a massive one you won't be able to get to the back of it. so you will have ot hacksaw some of it. Just make sure you get it square!!