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I'd recommend the broag remeha avanta range or Viessmann 200. I've not fitted an ATAG but I've heard some good things.

as dextrous said, the reducers are the way forward IMO. They go inside the compression fitting so you will not have to have any external reducers. I would recommend the use of PTFE on these. CE

just wondering why you need a cascade, seems like true overkill to me but if thats what you want! As others have mentioned an unvented cylinder and large bore pipework but be as good if not better option than a vented system, but depends on your pressure.

I think 3x is a bit stingy. In the past I have found its way more than that.

a colleague of mine drilled some holes into the boxing and filled the area with rapid expanding foam. this severely reduced the noise problem. but does present an issue if you ever want to fish it out.

did you get a restrictor with the float valve? if you did, you may want to install that.

I appear to have rattled a cage. I don't think you understand where I was going. I think you should be suitably qualified to use the title, there is quite a good page on regulation here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer When the EU gets their way, then the title of Engineer will...

Here's my 2p worth on heating "engineers" They shouldn't be allowed to carry the title "engineer" unless they are suitably qualified. The majority are not. In the UK the engineering council is the regulatory body for engineers... oooh and guess what they don't recognize Corgi/Gas safe etc as...

that sounds like 1/2" alkathene, as NigeF said, i would head down to plumb center and get some philmac or polypipe fittings and buy both Class C and D inserts, they are a quid max and you don't want to be rushing back with water squirting all over your drive! Out of the two i would...

Viessmann floats my boat. However as Agile says, a large unvented cylinder coupled with a decent system (heat only) boiler will do the business. You could get a combi and an unvented cylinder as well but its not a common setup.

thats the funniest first post i've read in ages. A+ that man.

if you get too little flow through the radiator, then it will dissipate its heat so you will get cold rads at the bottom. Either the radiator is too large or there is insufficient flow.

mmm... choices choices. Here's my criteria for a decent boiler: 1. Stainless steel Heat exchanger 2. Decent Reliable Controls 3. Weather Compensation 4. Call me unpatriotic if you will but get something dutch or German. Based on the above, I would suggest a Vitodens 200W. If you can...

a lot of heating "engineers" size by radiators, I don't I always size by your HW demand. I would guess 30kW minimum based on the limited information you've supplied. Likelihood is more than that.

rather than quote in bedrooms, if you get a rough floor size, ceiling height and whether you have cavity wall/loft insulation would allow a better estimate. Just off the top of my head 15kW seems low. CE

here's just my opinion. The best way would be to use a kumkle or sentinel valve, these are often used in steam turbines to avoid over pressurizing the casings. When the pressure gets too high, they lift and you hear a loud squeal. Unfortunately, that will not comply with building...

From a practical perspective, will you actually be able to see any flow go into the soil stack? not much point having the tundishes if you won't be able to see it. Whereas if its outside, i guess it will be more prominant CE