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to test to see if all the pipework is linked within the bathroom, get hold of a multimeter and test for continuity between things like the radiator and the taps, if you get a very low reading (ideally below 0.05 ohms) then the bonding between these is uneccesary, but it would still need to be...

they don't need changing just because they are the old colours, as long as they are a big enough cross section and double insulated, your sparky should be able to tell you all you need to know

my usuall one is "which dopey t##t did this?, only to find it was the customer :lol: Which part of Cumbria are you from? I'm at Ulverston

And I joke with customers about taxis turning up when your cantral heating comes on :lol:

that's the checking for labelling, correct protective devices bonding etc bit though, far too big a subject to cover in a post, and of course, PAT testing of the kettle is a must, including functional testing!! :lol:

it's like insulation testing with shower switches, the switch has to be disconnected to carry out the test because of the neon light, and a lot of PIRs are done far too quickly for this to be done, you can join the L/N and test between them and earth but it must be noted as a limitation to testing

It would be hell of a post to cover everything, so, a very quick run through, Ze, PSSC, PFC at the consumer unit, R1+R2 of each circuit, insulation resistance of either each circuit individually or the whole installation in one go, ring circuit continuity for any ring circuits, then max Zs for...

I like to offer a PIR first to highlight any problems, then quote for the CU swap based on that, I offer to offset some of the PIR charge against the board swap price because many of the test results I need to put on the installation certificate I will already have from the PIR, but really, only...

I've heard of these but has anyone had one, got one or got any knowledge/experience of them, seem cheap which makes me wary!!

my favorite ones are, "it'll be £500", "is that your best price?", "no, £4000 would be MY best price, but I suppose I'll have to be realistic!" Or, "it'll be £500", "can you do anything with that price?", "Yes, I could put it up!" A mate of mine is a signwriter, when he...

Think the moderators have stepped in by now and pointed out that it's not really in the spirit of things on here, I've seen quite a few good forums in the past be reduced to an internet slanging match by one idiot, lets not let it happen here, we all know that the information we gave was sound...

agree with what has been said already, I often get asked to quote for a rewire, go round to look and if all the cabling is all PVC, there is an earth in the lights, 10mm bond to water & gas and everything looks ok, I usually suggest a PIR, then quote for the work based on the results of the PIR...

I've met the type of builder who would suggest doing things this way, and to be honest, I'd be asking myself how competent the builder is, how would he like it if we started suggesting that he gets down to the library and got himself a book on bricklaying and do the lot on his own, after all...

Went to look at a job today, wire a new shower, consumer unit had no RCD, old crabtree board, suggested replacing board as breakers are hard to get hold of, would've had to have fitted an RCD just for the shower, quoted £350 to swap CU and wire shower, then she mentioned that she could get a...

I like the Hitachi ones they're doing for £90 with 3 batteries & a torch, been using one for bout 12 months now, very good

Ideally, the largest (highest amperage) should be nearest the incoming supply, helps to prevent voltage drop accross the busbar, so you would have for example 50 amp-shower, then 40 for the cooker, then 32 for the sockets etc, the 50 being nearest to the isolator or RCD

also, not all light fittings and switches are made to carry 10 amps

Whenever I run a cable through a wall I put a 22mm hole through, put a piece of 20mm conduit through then cable through that, makes passing the cable through much easier, you "should" turn off the power while this wire is disconnected

ordered one from power tool spares ta, don't like those sub base things, a lot of faffing around if you want to switch from using bushes to using the guide fence, but thanks anyway

the one big advantage of Part P as I see it, is that it makes the work accountable, for almost every piece of electrical work done, the customer SHOULD have a certificate with the contractors details on, and those test results on the certificate should show that he has tested his work, it is...