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It's 200A in MIG mode. I have a 16A socket already, as I don't need full power on the welder I considered running it on that for now but I've bought the 32A socket so I might as well do the job properly now.

Yes, I was wondering if it would take it without tripping. The welder actually has a maximum draw of only 20A and I'll not be running it flat out any time soon so I'm hoping it'll work till the new shop is built.

The workshop cu is connected back to the main house cu via a 10mm t&e, part of the run is in trunking the rest under a floor in free air, and is on a 50A type b mcb which is protected by an rcd. I don't have the figures to hand right now but I remember zs was very low so I think I should be...

The socket will be installed in a indoor workshop. It's damp at the moment because there is a leak in the roof (no where near any electrics). Strictly speaking I don't suppose I need to maintain the IP rating as it's not terribly dusty and there shouldn't be any water, let alone splashing water...

Thanks, I checked TLC last night, must have had my eyes closed. I think I'll go with the NYY, the SY looks over kill for what I currently need.

Hi, I have a CU in the workshop and would like to fit a new radial circuit for a 32A industrial socket (an MK Commando) to run a welder with a maximum draw of 20A. I plan on fitting a 32A Type C MCB in the CU. This is only a short term installation (until the new workshop is built, :D) so the...

Most of the woodwork in our old house has really badly chipped and yellowed paint and I'm struggling to find the best way repair it. With the doors I'm stripping them back completely with a hot air gun and refinishing them, this gives an excellent finish and can be done outside meaning not so...

:D that's exactly what our sparky said. I realize it's had to say for sure but do you think it will just be a case of removing the old valve and putting the new one in? In other words are the valve bodies likely to be about the same length? I'm asking so that I can judge roughly how long this...

Hi, I went to test the heating system ready for the cold winter we've been promised this year and to my disappointment it wouldn't fire up :roll: With the help of my sparky, who happened to be on site, we traced the problem to the PCB in the valve actuator. Manually opening the valve...

I agree, self tap to me would mean it could cut it's own thread given a starting hole. There are screws that can make their own hole through sheet metal that you use for putting up corrugated steel on barns etc but the metal is a lot thinner than the toilet framework. Like you I ended up...

Cheers, sleep is a distant memory at the moment! I did consider leveling the floor. I even got to the point of laying out lengths of CLS to gauge the size of the problem (e.g. rest it on the high point and shim it at one end till level). I found that the slope wasn't even across the floor, in...

Righty ho, bit of a delay getting back onto this job but my partner and I have just had this little (noisy) bundle of joy very early Sunday morning. As you can probably imagine she slowed the work down a bit :D. Anyway, I got back too it this weekend and cut and fitted the tiles to go...

That's good to know, thanks for the help. I hope to get the toilet in this weekend and make a good start on the tiling around the shower area. We are expecting our first born any day now so there is a real rush on to get it as finished as possible.

Just looked up the hardibacker instructions, you're right the joints should be filled and taped :oops:. Oh well they have mould resistant silicon in them now so I think they should be water tight. I'll run some tape along them anyway just to make sure. The joints in the flooring are tighter...

Unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to put tiles on the floor in this bathroom, shall we just say the floor has a bit of a bend in it. To make the shower tray level is perfectly level but that means it's flush at the back and has a 50mm step at the front over just 900mm! That's the joy of...

'Tis ok thanks, the kit comes with a bung that protects the waste while tiling but it doubles brilliantly as a general waste odour stopper - it's currently fitted.

The bottle is Titebond Original Woodglue. The cross members of the frame are half lapped and then glued and screwed - in other words they aren't going anywhere either. Thanks for the compliments BTW.