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Hi all, We have a traditional old fashioned set up, conventional gravity fed boiler with hot water cylinder upstairs and F&E tank in loft. The only connection therefore from the mains fed cold water is the ballcock into the F&E tank. So I'm wondering why whenever cold water demand is on (any...

Very true. In fact it was their annual service this year when they accidentally sliced through the ignition cable putting it back together, which caused me to have another £99 to fix that and instead of paying the £11 for a new ignition cable, they stuck it together with tape and then pulled out...

Er not quite it's 3 pounds per month and that includes the annual service. It's then 99 pounds for a call-out even if they don't do anything and just give advice. Which is what I'm anxious to avoid especially as I'm saving for a new boiler. I thought the whole point of these forums was for advice??

Back in August I flushed out my system after 4 weeks of using Sentinel X400, drained and refilled several times until the drain water was totally clear, refilled with the correct amount of Sentinel X100 inhibitor and left it. I was in the attic at weekend and noticed the F&E tank which was...

My gas safe technician is BG home care plan, who charge £99 for every visit. Great if it needs an expensive part replacing as with the gas valve + pcb last year, not so great if it turns out to be an airlock, or any other cheap fix like I once discovered. If the loud click IS the gas valve...

True, if gas really had been entering the chamber for 7-8 seconds there would be quite a bit of build up in the chamber. In that case, the loud click I hear on startup presumably isn't the gas valve opening as I'd assumed. What is that click likely to be? In summary the sequence of noises is...

Ok, getting somewhere. What does that suggest? What would the logic on the PCB be waiting for before igniting after it's opened the gas valve?

Had the dreaded ignition lockout a couple of times randomly recently, but it's never done it when I've been watching as I've been trying to determine if it happens pre or post ignition. I've been monitoring the startup pattern... heating on, pump starts, fan starts, air pressure switch clicks...

Is it true that if you have your boiler serviced in the summer, and the engineer sets the gas valve pressure accordingly, then come winter when everyone else in the street has their heating on you may find your pressure low and have to increase it slightly, or is that an old wives tale?

Cheers, that did the trick. Wired a couple of cables from a 12v battery to a choc block, so when I disconnected the sounder I could connect to the battery in seconds. Managed to keep the annoyance to the neighbours to a minimum!

Section from manual. Looking at that, the hold off is the red and blue as going into the board, so just connect the red and blue to the 12v battery ? ( confusingly the colours in the manual are not the same as what is actually wired). I guess I can connect the red to the + on the battery...

I am going to be replacing my alarm main panel this weekend, for an identical model. I'd rather not have the external sounder going off for 20 minutes if I can help it, but don't particularly want to have to go up a ladder to it. These are the current 5 cables from the external box going into...

Cheers, I'll check that tomorrow, although not sure how I could have damaged those cables as they run from the PCB to the speaker behind the upper front cover and I only removed the lower cover to change the battery.

I just replaced the 12v battery inside my burglar alarm, and when the cover was removed and the tamper alarm sounds it wasn't as loud as normal then went really quiet and then off. Put the new battery in, and all is as it should be apart from no internal sounds at all. So I could run the...

Because the monthly fee was £2 and my first call-out to them needed over 600 pounds of parts

An epilogue to this tale... I raised a complaint to BG because a) got charged for a call out which didn't spot or fix a really obvious fault (broken flame sensor), and b) the previous callout should have replaced the broken brittle ignition cable, not taped it up and highly likely breaking the...

I recently cleared a blockage in my gravity HW pipes and the heat is rising again, but what I'd like to know is if the flow rate is now normal or I have just partly cleared a blockage and it's still not optimal. If my system is completely cold, and I fire up the boiler on HW only so it fires...

Yep, but at that point I had the blockage in the gravity HW as well causing the overheating, so two issues. It was your posts that made my mind up about getting a second opinion rather than getting BG back once the blockage was cleared. I told him I'd read it was probably a rectification...

In case anyone is interested, this is now fixed. It was a damaged flame sensor cable. I noticed one of the dads at my sons cub scouts group turned up in a van proclaiming he was GSR, so although I didn't know him, took the plunge and showed him my video and instead of hanging around waiting for...

I'm dubious about that because a powerflush connects in place of your CH pump so would just pump around the CH circuit, would it have any real effect on the top of the gravity pipes? Although the quote from BG did say "recommend powerflush with particular emphasis on gravity circuit". I assume...