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You're right, it ain't football - it's maths. They want kids to try and think outside of the box. Wasn't like that when I as a kid I tell ya!

The only way that works out is if Rungs played two games and Dins and Hubs only played one game. It doesn't say in the question that they DID play two games each, just that they DIDN'T play the same team twice. Therefore: RUNGS 1 - DINS 4 RUNGS 3 - HUBS 3

Yes, 13a fuse in oven plug and 3a fuse in hob ignition plug. Other option would be to connect both the oven flex and the hob flex to the FCU but then the hob would be fused at 13a and should probably only be 3a. A 2.4kw oven and it didn't come pre fitted with flex and a moulded plug! Just...

Jeez! Did it really tak me 10 minutes to type that! Beaten to it!

Is the wall mounted switch 1 gang or 2 gang? If only 1 gang then just replace the faceplate with a Switched FCU, fused at 13a. You can then change the last bit of cable, from the connection box to the oven for 2.5mm cable. If that's not possible then change the connection box behind the oven...

Or change the CCU for one without a socket.

Option 4 but with lights on RCBO? Only adds thirty quid to option 4.

OK, so as I read it, you've taken a spur from the socket to a Fused Connection Unit? And I guess you've connected the correct conductors into the SUPPLY terminals of the FCU? Now you need to run T&E from the LOAD terminals to the light fitting. Neutral to the Neutral terminal in the light...

Also a very good point indeed and worth following up on. However, if the down link to the living room isn't connected to anything then you won't get any signal at all in the living room .

I'd hazard a guess that there was some sort of distribution amp up there in the loft. Ariel cable plugged into distribution amp input and then the three down feeds plugged into the distribution amp outputs. The previous owner hasn't taken the connectors with them, they've taken the...