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Thing is the oil based still stinks, needs ventilation and long working periods cause headaches. It really doesn't seem any different to work with than the old stuff. However, Johnstones aqua is the best gloss. Sikkens BL primer/undercoat and BL satura are superb. I've heard (but not used it)...

Vacuum cleaner on arch's doors etc and a soft broom on walls and ceilings. Dusting brushes are also effective.

There are paints designed to resist mould and mildew such as permawhite.

Its not, scrape excess paste as you strip, allow to dry and apply the gardz, its designed to seal off the paste so you can paint on top...

Scrape off the glue with a wide scraper and give it a coat of gardz.

In 15 years as a dec i have very very rarely not had to do some filling when following a plasterer. Follow the advice from blightyman, i would only add that you need to spot prime the filler once rubbed down. Use the diluted paint you did the mist coat with

Remove rail. Repair damage with a filler such as easifill, toupret or red devil. Allow to dry. Rub down. Prime filler with water diluted emulsion by about 25%. Ping a chalk line at the standard dado height all around the room. Measure and cut dado with 45 degree mitre cuts into corners...

Far easier to remove the dado, repair the wall with filler and install a new rail.

Just use a brush and roller, its a lot easier. Seriously, it takes skill, spraying is a trade within a trade, in my years as a pro i have never felt the need. Forget the BS QVC spout out on a Sunday morning, the finish is dreadful and its painfully slow compared to air air assisted, HVLP or a...

I've got an iPhone and i can block calls on it. I think this feature arrived with the last big update. I think the message you're getting means the phone you're ringing has no signal.

Best to use a hacking knife, removing putty is what they're designed for.

Satin is self undercoating so two coats after a good rub down, not a tickle.

Try second coating your test area. BTW there is a very easy way of testing sample pots against the colour in the card, just dab a bit of paint from the pot onto the colour on the card, allow to dry and results will ensue!

If you've killed off the mould and figured out and rectified the reason why there's no need. Stain blocks wouldn't work anyway as the mould settles on top of the final coating.

400 grade is way to low for what he has in mind, needs something more like 1500-2000, he will remove paint with 400. That said though i really don't see the need, for a top finish on gloss (gras a lacquer and spachtel aside) u/c followed by top coat which you wet abrade and then another top...

Remove, address the cracking and re-line is the best option. Not expensive, but time consuming and needs competent DIY skills. Or save up and pay someone. Or line on top in the opposite direction or apply an anaglypta which will hide the cracks better. My feeling is always do it...

Use something like bedec MSP, easy to apply and tough as old boots

Mods/management seem pretty scarce round here, i have absolutely no idea who they are but it would be nice to have a bit of co-operation every now and again, after all regular posters contribute to lining someone's pockets with advertising revenue. Another well known diy site is actively...

Its a cracking idea MrH but i don't think you can do stickies on this site. I've suggested it several times on threads related to mist coating and have offered to do it myself with no answer from mods. We need several stickies (yellowing gloss)??!!, but mods appear to just expect the regulars...

Contract paints are pretty horrible, non wipeable and powdery. IMO the best paint is little green intellimatt, washable (handy for a rental) and very durable with excellent flat finish, more expensive than crown, dulux etc but more value for money. Use acrylic eggshell on your bathroom ceiling...