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Just splice in a piece of wood chip over where you've plastered.

If you're going for a clear finish use white knotting, you'll struggle to make pine doors look like oak cos..... well ... they're pine innit!

Its more important to work out where you're going to finish. Inevitable pattern loss means you need to finish behind a door or unseen corner. Hard to give any further advice without seeing a plan or a photo.

Little green intellimatt is superior to both. The dulux does not give a true matt finish and can be difficult to apply. Trade paints are better pigmented but as Joe says require some preparation before use. Thinning by 10% is usually about the mark. You also get better obliteration and coverage...

Look like nails to me. Depends on your DIY skills but if it were mine i'd screw in plasterboard screws next to the nails and then pull the nails out, fill the holes, rub down, prime with thinned emulsion and re-paint. Its a problem that will just keep coming back, p*** poor construction, the...

The white stuff is efflorescence, just scrape it off, do not wash it off.

Just use a wide masking tape, you can use a filling knife to push it just beyond the bottom of the skirting.

Buy a small bag of easifill. Knock it up and spread it over the peeled area, rub down flush and prime with watered down emulsion. If you think further peeling may occur, roll on a coat or two of zinnser gardz or peel stop first.

You have to be careful with terribine dryers, you only need a few drops, over do it and your paint will go brittle. Everything you are looking for points to the sikkens BL satura or even the dulux quick drying satin. Satin is self undercoating.

The sikkens BL satura (water based or to be correct alkyd hybrid) is as good a finish as oil based but may require an extra coat. I've used tons of it and never been disappointed with it. The dulux quick drying undercoat is very good as well and the gloss is the best i've used. Oil based is...

Diamond matt is more expensive but thats a bit steep. Haven't bought it for a long time as i don't like it but my guess would be around £50-60 at a good decorators merchant.

One of my major gripes this, really doesn't take much effort to keep your hands clean and show a bit of respect for another trades work. My advice would be to ring the guy that did the painting and ask him if he can pop in and assess.

That would be the best course of action Phil, just make sure you prime the filler as i described to prevent the flashing and all should be fine.

Get yourself a small tub of easy sand filler (its ready mixed). Apply, sand down flush, apply a watered down (30 percent) coat of emulsion to the filler and finish with your top coat colour. Depending on the paint you used it may flash (stand out) but there's not much you can do about that, some...

if you gardz the plaster board you won't need to apply a size. A lot of mav papers are non woven (paste the wall), they are very good. Pretty sure you can't thin their non woven paste to size, not sure about the standard paste if you go down that route.

Robbie is bang on, its all about putting the right primer on, i would use 123 as well, you could also use coverstain or bin - both harder to use. They're not sapele ! they're normally cheap and nasty cardboard doors that soak up the light and make any room look dingy, loads of houses round my...

I think this is a pointless argument with a man who's sole purpose is to justify a skewed reasoning, and one who adapts his argument by changing industry standard terminology and practice without any authority other than opinion. You might be better joining the flat earth society Joe.

When paint is applied to a wall it is a liquid. When dry its a solid. The binder forces the components (polymers i think) together and it film forms. Emulsion dries by forcing water to the surface and evaporating, but a bare plaster wall is too dry and the porosity of the plaster has to be...

Its quite a common question on here. The problem is you can void the doors manufacturers warranty. Its a decision you have to make. Most stains will not penetrate deep enough to contact with the adhesive, oils could and varnishes definitely won't. If you like the finish leave them, if you want...

Me neither, sounds like another urban myth