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It shouldn't be that difficult to sand out brush marks. Use a p90 aluminium oxide paper followed by a 180/240 silicon carbide to smooth it off. Satura levels well but brush marks are effectively a high spot so need sanding back. Check back for runs with satura.

Its a bit strange saying not to water it down. The whole point of a mist coat is that the extra water you put into the paint sorts the thirsty porosity of the plaster. It could be that the screw fix stuff is very thin but if you fail to water down the initial mist coat the plaster will draw in...

Bump

Don't agree with the oil based u/c. Oil based paint on bare plaster is a bad idea unless you use ARP first. Any damp from plaster can cause saponification. If the leak is fixed you can just do it the normal way, thinned emulsion followed by a couple of top coats. Forgot to say apply a...

Excellent post, badly needed on this forum as a sticky, good work Mr H.

Its not well manned at the moment on this forum, but i'm sure your second comment has been noted so good luck with any future posts.

Plaster of paris.

1. Its hard to identify plasters sometimes, it looks like sand and cement but you need to do some research and decide for yourself. 2. It is essential to prime/mist coat. 3.Use zinnser gardz if papering and a thinned coat of emulsion if painting 4. The whole thing looks like in needs a...

Zinnser recommend bullseye 123 for ceramic tiles so reckon it would be ok for marble. You've got to use a high grip primer as marble isn't porous.

Absolutely fine.

no any water based primer is fine

Op failed to mention the muslims proclaiming our wives and children will become muslims, the hate preachers spouting there religious mantra and the fact the lefty students and vegetarians were as much up for a scrap as the right wingers. I would like to see a more intellectual approach to the...

Black and decker are absolute rubbish. I've yet to come across a room that needed mechanical sanding but try and get one that has a vacuum attachment to help contain the dust. Cheap wickes ones are usually ok.

You don't need to undercoat satin, just two coats. Spot prime the bare areas and fill knocks etc with a readymade proprietary filler like red devil. Satura is superb, make sure you get the BL labelled.

DONT USE FECKIN PVA!! Your filler will be stuck to the PVA not the wall creating a weak link in the system. It is likely that as soon as any pressure is put on to the filled area it will lift. Key it with a bit of sand paper and fill. It's going to be troublesome though as it will be hard to...

Rub down and prime bare spots. Don't think you need to u/c for barn paint but read the info available online to be sure.

Bedec products are very good.

Zinsser gardz would seal the wall in the problem area. Not quite sure why its happened, possibly retarded drying for some reason? But a note on diamond matt, Little green intellimatt is a far superior paint, dries to a true matt finish (unlike the Dulux) and is washable, and will touch up. A...

Its fine, the only thing is you may have to rub down the skirting again as some spray from the roller will land on them. This may create a few bare spots but you can spot prime these bear areas if needed.

Sikkens are excellent but use the XD for exterior. Bin is a PITA to keep a wet edge, cover stain would be better or aluminium wood primer. If you want the satura finish the BL satura is as good as the rubbol but check its ok to use outside. You have to keep checking back for runs with this...