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Have looked at the floor again now i have moved a door and can see it better and measure. I have 0-2mm at the highest points and 10-12 mm at the lower points. Looks like i may have to remove some areas to get at least 2mm. Might look at F.Ball stopgap 200, does 3-15mm but of course open...

Also just spoke to drybase technical. Yes in terms of paint on and use a dpm with sharp sand as key. Can't state a advice on SLC products from others, only that 5mm or more sounds better than 2. Also can't use their dpm as final surface or prior to paint. It repels and water product of course...

I have just spoken to f.ball (setcrete) they do not recommend ANY of their SLC range less than 5mm depth in my situation. Even the latex setcrete. They do their own primer then not less than 5mm on top. Even with saying that drybase do a primer he said nope, no dpm means 5mm plus to stand any...

Even 2 costs prior to SLC is a tin and a half (my area is 7m sq) at 4.5msq per tin Either way the SLC can't be the final finish as I understand it

Thanks for that. Maybe the bostick dpm is ok but that's the FAQ I quoted. I'm quite keen to try the drybase as dpm as you did, then screed with latex SLC and then use the drybase again as a covering as it says on their website. Would mean 3 lots of drybase at nearly £50 a shot.

Thanks again doggit. That drybase looks good, one of the best you can buy which is why it's expensive. So which setcrete did you use, normal universal or latex? ie some latex SLC won't work on the chemicals in that drybase or expoxy type. Setscrete suggest their own primer. Setcrete is made...

Ever build appear the same 50mm minimum on top. Can you recommend a product or brand that I can use, and suits my and their requirements, all the data sheets I read are the same? Of course each brand says only use their own products before and after SLC even down to any gaga re floor paint or...

now i am really confused a liquid dpm i have been looking at has some FAQ in the website, which implies this is useless for me!? Q I have coated my concrete floor with this material to form a DPM. Can I now lay floor tiles/a levelling screed/carpet? A No. In order to hold down the pressure of...

Logic makes me think would I not prime (pva?) the uneven surface first then use SLC and then liquid dpm. Then paint and do flooring. Or unless the SLC won't like the potential damp slab?

Thanks for that. As for the type of SLC?

Hi. I've looked at the Wiki but can't quite get what I think I need to know. Recently had a garage extention to be used a a hobby workshop. No cars will be driven on this section. I wish to level the concrete base because it wasn't leveled good enough. Base is a concrete slab of ready mix...

JobAndKnock, any explanation of your suggestion would be wonderful. No one else seems to have any ideas. Thanks

Could I instead bed a joist on top of the wall on mortar (ie brick 2 courses less along the side) Use this as a wall plate to fix joists to with hangers. Bed either horizontal or at the angle of the roof fall. Depending if the cross joists are 90 deg to the fall angle or not (they are on...

Thanks for your reply. Yes I agree any fixings of the bolt type for direct wall face fix of joist hangers or a timber wall plate fixed high up runs the risk (almost certain) of breaking the bricks, as well as depths of the bolts. Complicated by the fact that in have 34mm drop on the new section...

Hi. I'm looking to extend my garage flat roof. It's a single garage, attached to house one side. Attached to neighbours garage the other side. The roofs arn't attached because of an 8 inch step in ground level. The current construction of the roof timbers as built in 1976 are: - a length of...

Hi, Noticed i have an intermittent problem with my boiler. It's approx a 1998 model. Firstly when it lights it struggles to keep lit, with a spark and banging noise. When i watch the pilot it stays lit for a second or two then goes out, due to the bang, (which i assume is the gas valve...

Thanks. Just one final thing to clarify the cable between the cooker outlet plate (supplied by 6mm cable at 32amps) and socket will be ok in either 2.5 or 1.5 cable? I believe the socket terminal won't take any more than 4mm cable. The cooker '13 amp' plug has a 3 amp fuse.

Looks like philmac do plenty of compression converter fittings that I may look to use. Another option is to undo the joint on the plastic currently and lower it reusing the same fitting, still above ground. Or maybe lower it below ground but have access to it for checking/replacing. Might be...

Is there any reason why the brass stop cock couldn't be a plastic one, seen them in s/fix book? Also can someone please confirm ifi have mdpe or ldpe/alkathene pipe entering the house? It measures 21.3/21.5mm O/D and is black.... Have found contradictory info here...

Thanks. Exactly just hate for it to leak! What trunking is advisible? The plastic exposed at the moment sweats, so needs lagging/insulation too within the trunking? No doubt the mdpe is just slapped in the floor with concrete from new, but should be one length!