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Masona, read the quote again mate - the *brick* is acting as a lintel. :-) Murraysnudge, yep, I was going to see what I could see in the loft. But hoped it was settled. Maybe I should anyway. One problem is that all you can see of the brickwork above the plate is an area about 2 feet wide...

murraysnudge, This site does reckon that breeze blocks were used back then, and the things do look like 'em to me, fwiw. http://www.homeownersales.co.uk/1930.html But your not impressed with matey's theory about their applications. Hmm.. b*gg*r! Hope he's not a BS merchant. Fwiw...

Ok, just had an FMB builder visit. The first one didn't phone back btw - why are they so unreliable? Anyway, I asked about the wall, and he screwed his face up and said, "no, this wouldn't be a cavity wall in a property like this; it'll be solid". He said the 'black bricks' are breeze blocks...

Well, as I said, there's brickwork on top of the plate. So it can't really be a sleeper wall. I'll let you all know what happens and what it is, for reference purposes. Builder said he'd phone tonight, so don't know when he'll actually come. When he does, maybe I should get him to post...

murraysnudge, Can't see the outside -pebble-dash. For the wall at the ends of the joists, the brickwork in the foundation i.e. up to the plate, appears to be all ends of bricks - or else they're all very short! Above the plate, I can only see a few bricks. Near the corner there are a couple...

Tex, I'd assumed (for some reason) it was a cavity wall. Is that worse? I wasn't going to risk cutting out more than a couple of feet at a time, though. I've just phoned a couple of builders from a list the FMB sent me. First guy who lists "conservation" along with house building as his...

South East

murraysnudge, No, sorry, haven't got the technology. I thought you and Tex had got the picture? Masona (just seen your post.) The plate's on the inner layer of the external foundation wall, with wall on top of that. Parts of the joists in the immediate area are affected, and will need...

Well, in the case of the *sleeper wall* I can see a dpc under the mortar (or whatever it is) that supports the plates. But in the outer wall at issue, I think the dpc may be on top of the 'mortar' (could be wrong) . Either way, does anyone know how to fix these small replacement lengths of plate...

Ah, good! That's the kind of thing; we've got the sleeper walls with a plate on top, in between the outer walls too. Presumably, you had to support the brick above the plate to remove it? Anyway, would you recommend I chop out small bits of plate and replace? If so, aren't the plates...

Nope. Brick walls. It's a pre-1940's English bungalow, with crawl space. Main external brick wall has brick foundations with a piece of timber (sill plate) on top of the *inside layer* of the foundation brickwork. On top of that rests the ends of joists. Built on top of the sill plate there...

Nothing to do with windows. Apparently, (this is all new to me as of a couple of days ago), the 'sill plate' is a pressure treated piece of timber that is rests on the foundations (actually, bolted down on). The walls above the foundations sit on top of the sill plate. Hence the slight...

Sill plate (mudsill):  Bottom horizontal member of an exterior wall frame which rests on top of a foundation, sometimes called mudsill. Also sole plate, bottom member of an interior wall frame

Due to long term leakage from a badly installed sink in a bungalow kitchen, the main external wall's sill plate is badly rotted in the corner area - probably for about 4 feet on each side of the corner. Does anyone know if it's possible to replace small sections of the sill plate as a diy job...

I've just realized the purple berberis isn't evergreen: http://www.buckingham-nurseries.co.uk/acatalog/product_10141.html#sectiontop But the yellow one is ultimately taller than I'd thought: http://www.buckingham-nurseries.co.uk/acatalog/product_10142.html#sectiontop DaveJ

We have a similar location, but with a featherboard fence. We've had a couple of boards broken so far -fairly easy to replace though - and of course graffiti. I'm a little surprised you can't secure the wood somehow, but not really familiar with those panels. Chain link solves graffiti, but they...

Well, he didn't mix it like that. He did it separately and poured the mix in. Maybe it wasn't "Postcrete" but something similar. But the point of my question is that if the mix had more water than it's supposed to have (he admitted that it would take an hour rather than 15 mins because it did)...

Just had a 4ft chain link with metal posts installed in garden. Company said "Postcrete" would be used. Whatever it was it said 15 mins on bag. I take it no ballast is required because it wasn't used? One post turned out to be loose, I told company and contractor returned next day. He didn't...

Yep, thanks Tex. This had just occurred to me, too. Can't see any obvious evidence of dampness in the wall, there, at the moment. Where the plaster's falling off isn't actually around the sink; the sink's got a rock hard built up tiled area which took me hours to chisel away so that I could get...

Ok. I was thinking about one coat diy plaster - does up to 50 mm in one go or whatever, apparently. But thanks Masona. Dave