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From what you describe the answer is 'perhaps' What is the rating of the cable you want to re-use,? is it on an RCD protected circuit?, do you know where it comes from ? and how much total load do you envisage using ?- 2.5mm will get you a 16A feed , but voltage droop (lights flicker in shed...

At a first guess - but best to look at the other end of the wire if you can, Blue neutral. Red live all the time yellow live when light on to trigger fan to start timer. Possibly reverse roles of red and yellow if it doesn't go off... That is how I do it -BUT there is NO 'universal'...

Aha, OK, load is out, so, red (live in) to In becomes L2 or L3 whichever one will connect to L4 when on - check with meter before connecting, or leave blue off until sure, otherwise if you get it wrong there will be a short accross mains when switch is pulled. Blue to L4 (neutral - only...

the transformer is probably over heating (given recent weather) - does it have good airflow - and is it man enough for the number of lights and the total wattage involved, or have higher wattage lamps been fitted and the transformer not upgraded. Actually, in a wet area, the low voltage lamps...

There is also the problem of colour quality - the same reading on a light meter for two sources does not mean the same usefulness - to work well we are adapted to a thermal spectrum similar to sunlight where all colours are present with a slight yellow/orange bias. Anything that does not...

If no jumper link is supplied in the little plastic fixings bag, than loop an offcut of feed wire to take the live from the first L terminal to the other - this cooker could be wired betwen phases if you had a 3 phase supply, but as you dont, and its only resistors in a box they can be...

whos how to? If its this site should Email admin and say...

unless that elemnt is not on 100% of the time - then the averaged depends on the control mechanism... Actually a 13A fuse will carry the best part of 20A for 30 mins before blowing anyway, so it is most likley OK in practice, but not really the best method- agree separate sockets or 20a switches.

In this case it is more a question of what is neat, and safe, and that depends on the mechanical layout.

Henly is also caller a service connector - think giants choc bloc - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK1101.html How unusually sensible of the local authority... It sounds like you have PME, or PNB and may not legally need the RCD, but perhaps it was formerly declared a TT suppply . In...

really. I dont think so - we've had this before, and in the time it takes to heat a cable to a dangerous temperature, the cooker thermostats are in operation, and pinging on and off. If the breaker and cable are correctly rated for each other, and the cooker is not more than 150% of this then...

Or put a joint box (30a type) in a place where by unscrewing bath panels or trick floor board or similar, it can be easily inspected. Under the floor should be dry or you will have other probs anyway.

Hmm. There must be some more wiring on that circuit other than tht you have already disconnected. Is it possibe to see all the wiring under the floor or in the roof voids - perhaps something has chewwed into it. It sounds like it might be easier to bypass the defective section altogther and...

nothing, except I think that he wants to plaster the cable in, in which case flex isn't really quite the right stuff.

If its a business premises, then part P is superceded by electricity at work act. Most important however, lay the cable in such a way it will not be damaged, usually this means buried 18" deep or more, in soil or sand free of sharp stones, or clearly visible, either overhead, or clipped to a...

Hmm, part P marginal - you may be seen as changing the circuit loading. If it were mine, I might well just do it and not worry too much, or do it last year, if you see what I am driving at, but to be correct strictly you should probably contact your local council building control office for...

Are you sure - I can usually get three 1mm lighting cables in the same piece of 15a choc bloc - actually I often open the screws right up and pass the wires under both screws of the tunel in use, and all from the same side - this gives a more positive contact as both screws are clamping...

Better to box it up in a proper choc box or similar. tape comes off and goes all clarty and horrible over time. Basically, you need to duplicate what you have - very sensible to photo it. Before you undo it number the wires with dots of tippex, or an indellble pen or sommat. The three wires...

Between 1970 and 1974, as a phased introduction. So did the rest of the EU as it was then - before then there were red lives in the UK, red earths in germany, black lives in france, black neutrals in the UK etc...

Dont use flex, unless it will terminate in a plug , in which case it could be in a pipe or conduit plastered over into the wall for the purpose. Otherwise twin and earth is the right stuff to use, and by the time it reaches the speakers it needs a fuse, so either fused spur, or a plug and socket...