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JohnD is right, i have found sikkens to be better in this whole yellowing fiasco, but as said it really does need to be water based / alkyd hybrid to avoid premature yellowing. I've found the best solution to be sikkens BL satura which is a satin

i just find it easier to hang with the paper pasted, i prefer hanging the paper wet than dry, tend to get creases with dry paper, would never knock anyone though, just my personal preference

It will be a non woven paper, which doesn't expand when pasted, its actually easier to use than traditional LP because of this. There's no reason why you can't paster the back of the paper as normal if you prefer to do it that way (i do).

It normally dies off if you cut through the thick stem at the bottom. It mostly comes off ok then but it does wrap itself quite tenaciously around guttering etc so a bit of work will be required. I would think there are killers you can buy from the garden centre that may or may not act faster...

Could be you're applying it over silk emulsion or applying it too thick or not allowing enough drying time.

Peel stop by zinnser is good and i expect gardz would work as well, hard to diagnose the cause without knowing the products

It can be useful with WB paints to ease application, not sure about OB as never done it. I've always thinned with white spirit and never noticed any loss of sheen level. I'd say it would be easier to heat the paint by decanting gloss into a kettle and then placing in a larger kettle with hot...

Unless anyone has a better idea i'd still say its fungal

Could be a form of fungal growth, its commonly red in certain areas, if it is a fungicidal wash should do the trick. Hosing it off won't kill it, you can also use a bleach solution but its very difficult to prevent run off into the surrounding environment.

You're pretty much right but go with two coats of the satin

Dulux OB will yellow, how fast? certainly its better than earlier 2010 reg attempts but yellowing is i believe still a problem, i have been avoiding it so not sure what its like now. I usually use aqua for gloss but mainly use sikkens BL satura which is excellent.

Undercoat is advisable, if you go water based you need to rub down very well. Aqua is good but all WB gloss/undercoats are harder to use than OB. There is loads of info on here about the toss up between the two, you need to weigh it up and do what you think is best, forget Dulux for anything...

Nice reply, have a look at bedec, they do a few multi purpose paints, one of them might do it

False economy mate, why would you want to do it on the cheap only to have to do it again when the paint system fails? Cheaper in the long run to do it right and do it once.

Bloke from the pub - £50 per day, cash only or bar tab Odd job/handy man - £70-80 per day, but will want you to give him10/10 on his checkatrade account Experienced professional decorator £120-150 per day, drinks a lot of tea but will probably do it better and quicker than the first two...

Hammerite is horrible, you'll get more longevity if you prep well, prime bare spots, undercoat and gloss.

Just a bit Mr H ! How can anyone know the standard required without learning what that standard is?

Just buy yourself a set of steps, a cheap brush set from B&Q and an old hatchback and you're a painter, it really is that easy!

Best advice i can give is to search through posts on hear about acrylic/wb paints, there's quite a lot of info on hear about techniques and the better paints to use. I find the sikkens BL primer/undercoat about the best on open times but in this weather its gonna be a short window with any WB...

You could also use bin because its basically pigmented shellac. Pet hate of mine, i can understand diyers forgetting but its amazing the amount of recently built houses i see with big brown stains everywhere, takes no time at all to do.