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Don't forget if its internally beaded at present it will be a 10 second job to get in your house if the door is reversed

Fully agree with SAS - only the **** in their 10 plate fully pictured Mercs have no qualms about putting pvc over bad wood. Tear it off fully and pay attention to rafter tails and the last 2 foot of tile batten on the gable - they could be rotten as well.

Go to your local building plastics supplier and buy a bottle (1L) of solvent cleaner and a trigger spray. Use in a well ventilated area with h/d tissue. Beware of coloured tissue though, some colours, esp blue can 'bleed' off and onto the plastic staining it. Turn/replace tissue frequently...

Place a straight edge along a straight run of gutter or frame and extend it past the corner. Using a basic maths set with a 45/90deg and 30/60 set squares, measure the angle. If the 45deg fits in its 135, if the 60deg (steep side of the triangle) fits in its 150deg. More likely to be 135 in my exp.

Have you tried local bespoke joinery shops? Maybe they could help

I'd certainly query the proposed contactors modus operandii, as i stated earlier, the outer gasket is attached to the frame during manufacture and is difficult if not impossible to remove. maybe they propose to cut the offending gasket out and replace with new, or just use glazing tape (a...

PS - branches in Bristol, Bishopworth and Warmley. HTH

Howdens do a range of doors right down to 18". I'm pretty sure i've used a 21" 3 panel version of a 6 panel grained (half width)DIC9020Trywww.howdens.com

:shock: never heard of that before!..... It sounds vaguely Hitchcock-esque if you get my drift! Anyway, back to your problem. If your windows are only a couple of years old I presume that they are internally beaded i.e. the glass is fitted from the inside. If this is true, the chances are that...

Hillmarket. Defo always called these a loose rebate stop, although this could be a colloquialism :roll: . Essentially, two types of door casing are available - 1: Inbuilt rebate to hang the door into 2: Flat casing with loose rebate stops that you can position anywhere witin the casing reveal.

As others have said, the eaves closure where the polycarb meets the ring-beam may be partly the culprit. It is a stand-off length of rigid plastic with a self-adhesive strip on the top edge which effectively 'ties' the roof sheathing down. I have known shi*e fitters who don't bother, or forgot...

Mike. Looking at your problem I think it should be reasonably easy to fix. One problem however is that between the arm on the friction stay (hinge) and where it was originally attached to the sash is a spacer - did you or your Mum find a small nylon/plastic disc lying around somewhere? If not...

Always known it as a loose rebate stop - if i'm understanding what youre saying :?:

Ahhh...bless. Numpty-ness should make it into the next Collins Eng Dic. for sure :D We cannot all be good at all things - me... i'm crap at ironing and can burn water :wink: If you did take the panel out, then yes it would go back in. Crank - I dont, as a rule generally, heel'n'toe the bottom...

Aluminium windows offer very little, or no thermal break compared to modern multi-chambered uPVC units. The outside temperate is transmitted directly through the frames, like heating one end of a metal rod - the other end will eventually get hot, and as the ambient temperature at this time of...

You will need to measure the thickness of the existing panel - it should be 28mm if its less than a year old, but could be 24mm dependent on supplier. You will also need to pop the beads out and measure the existing panel w x h. Be aware that a flat panel will fit into even the narrowest of...

I think your units are 28mm overall and configured at 4-20-4. In high noise areas like close proximity to busy roads I give the customer an option to upgrade to 6-16-6 (again Pilks K energikare argon filled) as it really does (apparantly) cut a hell of a lot of the din out. As others have said...

Done a few retrofits of trickle vents for customers with BAD condensation probs (dont ask) :roll: . Removing the glass is not always required as you can see where the top of the bead (int or ext) is and work to a line greater than 10mm above this. Ideally, the frame should be routed, but thats...

You can specify warm edge spacer bars these days but it would mean replacing all your s/u's :roll:

Cranks so right, but the guy must be thick cos the profit margin on sealed units is far better than complete replacement windows when you consider the time/labour/disposal costs.