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Many thanks for the advice. If I chop out to 35mm must I then fit a 35mm back box or could I just push the existing in a bit? Also, I don't understand why with a metal front plate, I need to ensure the back-box is earthed. Obviously the front plate must be earthed but why do I need to earth...

Hi I'm trying to replace a 1 gang brass switch with a 1 gang stainless steel one - purely for cosmetic purposes. There are 3 multi-core cables entering the back box and the existing switch plate only fits because it protrudes by about 1cm out of the wall. The new one sits dead flush with...

Thanks to most of the replies. I should have said the diagram was top-down. So I bent it side-ways. I did fit an overflow (actually a "warning" pipe) but I guess it couldn't cope with the water under mains pressure so some escaped over the top. THe thing is I didn't go inside the loft to...

Hi Came home from work last week to a complete flooding disaster! Loft, half of upstairs and many items downstairs damaged. Probably can't claim on insurance because it was my own fault - I installed the water cistern a few months back! Of course I immediately closed the inlet isolating...

Hi I'm in the middle of replacing my old cold water tank in the loft. I've just noticed (late as usual!) that the existing plastic overflow pipe needs extending but the pipe size looks about 24mm (measuring the external diameter with an adjustable spanner). Most of the pipe I see for sale...

http://www.conservatoriesonline.com/priceguide.htm Oops!! Link above.

Hi According to the link below, a glass-roofed 4Mx4M conservatory _should_ cost up to 22K! I'm sure I've seen people post on this board before saying a ball-park figure for an average 16 or 25mm poly conservatroy should be around 8K. So even allowing for the glass roof I can't understand how...

Hi I've done quite a lot of searching and can't find an answer to this sorry if its a stupid question but I'm pretty desperate! The new gas hob installation instructions say that it must be located at least 10cm from existing furniture. However, 6cm to the left is a high cupboard enclosing...

Oh I see! Thanks for the explanation - makes sense. Still not sure why the immersion method wouldn't have worked though? Would I have blown up the cylinder? 8-)

I used the technique described by Bab earlier in this thread by boiling the water in the coil. You still haven't said why you think blasting some mains pressure water directly into the coil wouldn't have solved it?

Just to say thanks for all the advice on this. I solved it in the end by boiling the water as previously described.

If it might fix itself how long do you think I should wait before getting a plumber in? I already tried (to no avail) the cold return feed from the cylinder. Thanks for the help you've given me so far btw.

Is that the connection that is about half way up the cylinder, comes from the boiler directly and is hot? I've tried opening it but only get water - no trapped air.

Why not? Or how about bypassing emersion stat so outer water boils?

Thanks for all your help. Finding the stat sensor in the boiler might well be a task too tough for me - especially without a technical manual. Could it be fixed by draining down the system again, opening up the inlet/outlet pipes to the coil and flushing them with a hose?

Is there anything I can do?

Thanks Kev! Boiler is directly below cylinder. So are you thinking the blockage is either in the coil itself or on the return? If it was on the return wouldn't the return be warm until the point of blockage? (Its stone cold from the cylinder onwards)

There are two returns with one pump moving the rad circuit and gravity driving the heating element in the cylinder. If there is no air on entry and exit to the cylinder coil does that mean there can't be an airlock in the cylinder? If there is, I was just thinking of using the immersion to...

Its a Potterton Netaheat 10-16