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Can you advise on a simple way of testing before and after tests? Oh, and to the poster who said it should read 0 or just a few volts... on the testers I've looked at there doesn't seem to be a readout, just a selection of lights/beeps...

It only came up as we were discussing whether to go for a split board or for full RCBOs. I'm glad he mentioned it as it's simply got me learning/thinking more rather than just blindly nodding at what he's saying. So if a 2 light circuit job is done properly, is the landing light usually on...

Hi all, I've not undertaken any electrical work before but have read up on the very basics of light fittings and am looking to replace a ceiling rose with a more modern light fitting. I've identified the existing wiring including the switched live and dare I say it the whole swap over looks...

The house is late 1980's and all the electrics are original, so whatever it's got, it's had from the start. If the old one circuit light system used to be the norm then I can't understand the change in trend to using 2 circuits, especially if many were done with this 'dodgy' borrowed neutral...

Thanks for all the details there, it's helped me get my head round it (to some extent) ban-all-sheds - got it in one. It's a big estate and the electrician is well versed with my style of house so he's fully expecting my house to have the borrowed neutral on the landing light. I now see...

I’ve got an oldish fusebox with cartridge fuses and am looking to get it replaced with a consumer unit. At the moment it has separate upstairs and downstairs lighting circuits, each with a 5A cartridge fuse. I had a guy round to give a quote and he mentioned that there would probably be borrowed...

I've tried silicon spray but it's a liquid so dries almost instantly and it's made no difference. This is what I tried...

I've got double glazing upvc units and the 2 windows that face south frequently 'stick' shut presumably due to the heat from direct sunlight as no other windows are affected. It's the black rubber seals that seem to stick to each other - one on the frame and the other on the opening window...

Cheers Tony, it's the standard 100 series combi WBA-1C I think. It's under warranty so I'll just leave it and see how it goes. They probably wouldn't come out if it's working OK anyway.

Transam - you'll have to enlighten me to what the transformer does and when it kicks in. This buzzing noise appears for about 5-10 seconds when the boiler shuts off - and seems to be louder the longer the CH has been on. I also hear the buzz during periods of inactivity when the PCB instructs...

Boiler is a Viessmann combi. After the CH has been on, and the boiler shuts off, - the fan and pump (?) continue to overrun for a couple of minutes as expected, but when they shut off, there's a loud hum (which varies in pitch) for about 10 seconds or so as the boiler finally shuts off. Also...

I'm aiming for minumum disruption possible so was hoping not to have to touch any other rads. What bit of a problem could I expect if I don't bother?

OK, I agree I’ll be draining the whole radiator as it will be easier that way. It’s a sealed system, so once it comes to refilling the radiator, what’s the best way to do it? The radiator is downstairs, so once I open the valves at both ends will I need to open the bleed nipple to allow water...

Not sure I'm totally following this! With the bleed nipple closed, and the valve union unscrewed (with my finger over the end of it), when I then unscrew the spigot, water will flow out pretty sharpish from the rad until i plug it. The when it comes round to refitting the spigot, it's not going...

MeldrewsMate, do you think it'll be possible to avoid draining the radiator? Removing any old PTFE in the female threads of the rad would be near impossible whilst the rad is full wouldnt it?

I have a very small weep coming from where the radiator valve screws into the radiator itself and would like to have a go at fixing this myself. Is it possible to fix this whilst leaving the radiator in place on the wall? I was thinking of the following – isolate the radiator, undo the...

I feel your pain, as I also have problem pipework similar to yours. Is yours a recent (ish) build by any chance? I've just gone down the clip and add foam route that you have already tried. This has helped a little but I know it's only a temporary bodge. You could notch the joists lower (if...

I've recently had a new combi boiler fitted (it replaced an open vented system) and when it starts up on a demand for CH, there's a reasonably loud splashing/trickling water sound from inside the boiler. It sometimes extends to the flow pipework. The noise in the boiler dies down after a few...

Vogel and Noot do a width of 720mm. Combine that with the longer fitments that TRVs and lockshields (particularly drain off ones) have thse days and you should fill your 750mm gap without altering the pipes.

Some good points made there, particularly about proper tradesmen, skill and the use of hand tools versus the house builders of today and their array of power tools. I think next time I'll be looking in the 30's - 60's era.