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no, a "repair" is guaranteed for a year. You may be charged for another job with similar symptoms if the actual fault is diferent. Eg. No hot water might need a new valve, a month later you might need a fan on the boiler - 2 faults, 2 charges.

Not exactly, but why call someone out if there is no fault

The excess is per fault. We at british gas have both good, bad and indiferent engineers, no diferent to other companies or indeed independents.

Water/air/fan/pump.......there are lots of diferent noises

Do you mean black fasciaa behind the bottom door, and green knobs?

Which turbo max is it?

With all due respect, you appear to have, virtually, no idea about your system so a pro would be the best advice.

A good bet is dirty plate heat exchanger, there are other possiblities

Yes, 22mm pipe is the norm.

Testing with a meter would tell you if there's an electrical fault "before" the pump. Just because the timer appears ok does not mean there is power to the pump. From your questions I would suggest you get someone in who understands the issue as you are clearly not competant - no disrespect, but...

I would tend to agree with the dead leg being the problem. Whether it's down to your installer or you is between the two of you, I would suggest it depends what the quote/estimate says, eg, if it says disconnect old/redundant pipe he should have done so.

that's the bit, circled, use a spanner as pliers will round the spindle after a few turns.

That 0 bar of pressure will be the system pressure, i'm assuming the gauge is next to the vessel. There is, possibly next to the gauge, a filling loop, a braided hose with an isolating valve at one end, and either a non return, iso or a valve incorporating both, turn it (them) on til the gauge...

Have you just the one motorised valve? Bit unusual these days, but not unheard of.

You actually asked if you can do the job without touching the boiler!

No, unscrew it from a convenient joint and screw in a plug.

You might be able to disconnect it if both valves shut off, it would look awful if the pipes are left, to remove them a drain down would be needed.

You would need to run off enough water to cool the cylinder 'stat. It's probably easier to just turn the cyl stat up. It may well work ok for a while but it wont be long before it sticks again.

I would be suspecting the HW valve end switch to be the problem, not opening when valve closes.