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Look at the FAQs for "recharging expansion vessl"

Can you take the flexis and niples out and post pics of all the bits you've used, I'm intriguedby the fact nothing seems to seal!

Dont see how the ins comp can say your at claims limit if they have only thrown bits at it that have nothing to do with repairing the fault! As for the fault, does the boiler lock out - any flashing/solid lights?

The grey plastic pipework around the hot water tank looks interesting, I'd like to see a few pics from diferent angles of that. Air is a likely candidate for your problem

Could be the diverter passing to rads when in HW mode, maybe the plate h/ex needs cleaning or replacing.

Possibly the pump speed too high, or lockshields turned too low

The three threads you have running about your rads not working all point to a lack of circulation. A couple of possible remedies are, check/replace the pump, it might be full of system dirt! Ensure there is water in system, seems obvious but often overlooked! Check for restrictions in pipework...

The cold for a dishwasher really needs to be from the main, is your WM using mains water? Is it does you need to tee into supply and fit an iso valve, and ideally a tee in the waste and a proper trap/stand pipe. There are easier/cheaper/DIY type methods.

You need a RGI, fan is gas/flue!

Dread, you could get suprima with a built in flow switch, although they were a bit rare! OP i think you system is pretty dirty, try a chemical clean and then, if it does need a flow switch get a RGI to sort as the flow switch is inside the boiler.

Drayton rts1, i think.

The same as you had before should be fine, and as you were happy with it, it seems the logical choice. The receiver would normally go next to the wiring centre, providing there is a permanent live in it. The straightforwardness of installation is relative to your competence!

I have found a few leaking fittings on plastic but no more so than copper. I do however find plastic on CH systems (rad supplies) much more prone to blocking with magnetite than copper and yes I do know about barrier and non-barrier pipe.

Just to add my six pennies worth, in the old days, a diverter valve would only have one port open and usually give hot water priority. The more usual valve used nowadays is a mid-position valve which can supply both heating and water.

Does your boiler have the rubber pipes, they've been known to block up!

Are you sure about the time issue, at time of pic the hands say 10 o'clock and the dial behind looks to be showing the same at the top.

You will need to site the receiver, from the info you've given, near the boiler and connect the L & N in boiler to same in receiver, the 2 wires that feed the old 'stat should be connected the the switch terminals in receiver. Make sure the power is off and remove the fuse before starting and if...

I would say about a turn but when it feels tight, stop!

You're almost there, keep tightening the nut and you'll hear/feel it 'break' and appear to loosen, a nip up and you're sorted.

Its possible that the problem is a thermister but the more usual fault that gives your symptoms is a dirty plate heat exchanger.