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The cold for the shower should be teed from after the pressure reducing valve so that the cold and hot pressures are equal which means you wouldnt get this problem. Hmm, looks like it might be

Check rad valves are open, both ends, make sure you physically check them, youd be amazed how many people dont just "because they wouldnt all be off"

I think i would be looking at the pump, it may be blocked, if so it might be worth sticking a new one in, adding some cleaner and running it till near the swap over, then flushing out all the muck. This might seem hassle for an impending replacement but a dirty system will drastically reduce the...

What reading is showing on the gauge? When you open a radiator vent, does anything come out?

Try http://www.freeboilermanuals.com/pdf/chaffoteaux_et_maury/britony_Combi_Installation___Operating.pdf Page 29

Why not get wireless programmable room stats and a seperate timer for hot water.

As you've had someone look at it I assume the pressure is ok, 1 - 1.5 bar. (run the risk of being slated for assuming). When the boiler doesnt work does it make any noises similar to those it makes when it does work?

If you're gas safe, join the combustion chamber forum and you'll get answers on gas issues, you wont get gas advice here.

Ensuite may well be "summer operation " unusual though for bedroom. Can you post a pic of the pipework from pump to valves? I'm begining to suspect reverse circulation.

I would suggest a fault is more likely to be in the "air" stat, but replacing both might be sensible as they are only a few quid each.

Well, hopefully the cylinder has finally reached temperature :D

I'd go like for like, they're not bad progs generally.

Looks like it. You could link the L and 4 at the prog, when power turned on the heating should work under the control of room stat. That would confirm wiring, room stat and valve all ok.

Looks to be wired correctly, disconnect the blue wire and make it safe.

Disconnecting the frost stat would prove, one way or the other, whether that was the problem, a control clicking is not a reliable test. After seeing the video, the valve is moving as I would expect, but doesnt eliminate it as the problem. When the system is cold, with both HW and CH off at...

Now you need a similar test on the CH wire from prog, the one that supplies the room stat with power.

Do you have a frost stat? If you do, disconnect it and see if the system works as you would expect it to, if you dont have a frost stat let the system cool right down before trying any mechanical tests.

With CH on at programmer AND room stat turned up check for 240v at the brown wire on the CH valve. Do this test between brown and neutral, then brown and earth.

How?

A few electrical tests are required, do you have a multimeter?