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I'm amazed that you have the exact same problem yet you have different lights showing to op. :shock:

If your new tubes are longer than the old ones you could try cutting the copper just below the plastic fittings. Best bet would be compression ends on the tubes but it sounds like you've bought BSP ones.

The grey collar at the bottom of the fitting pushes up into the white bit, then the whole thing will pull off. You wont find any thread on the pipe.

Its a complete ball-ache but you need to find which pipes are blocked then either clsean out or replace them

I would say about 3/4 which will be roughly 70°.

I suspect there is a fault

Agree with stormer!

Motorised valve looks to be most likely suspect.

It will if the last demand was for CH.

Cold feed should be between open vent and pump and less than 6 inches from the vent

Are you sure?

You wouldnt be doing a gas course by any chance?

If its not worked since the salus installed its either wired wrong or faulty. Pics of the wiring might help

The pressure releif valve does not increase the pressure, thats the filling loop. You could let some water out of a radiator bleed valve, but if the filling loop is still on it wont happen.

What boiler/system do you have? Do you have to add water/pressure to system? By "over bleeding" do you mean leaving bleed nipple open after the air stops and water comes out?

Try a small adjustable spanner on the bit where the tap handle was!

You need a multimeter, and to know how to use it, to do some diagnosing.

Get a different plumber/engineer, your guy is useless!

If you're going to remove them when you do rads why not use draincocks, you can then reuse them at the new rad!

Prv discharge pipe from heating can be extended, if its on an unvented cylinder youd need a g3 plumber. It needs a fall of any description and must terminate safely. That , basically, means at low level or swan-necked back to wall, but not where someone can stand right under it.