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I dont think you'll get much advice on this, to work on an unvented cylinder you need to be certificated.

Get a registered boiler repair man in, certainly doesn't sound like a DIY job

Er, what does IGEM stand for?

Does the ball valve drip? If yes, change it.

Can you give more details on the boiler and system.

Am i missing something? At 5:25 you started a thread which appeared to be all about getting your poorly installed boiler/system put right, and now you've got a complete new system! What is this thread really about?

No, use copper pipe and do the job properly!

Has the living room ever heated up?

http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/cache/file/596/installation-manual-for-greenstar-i-junior--manufactured-from-jul-13.pdf Does this help

To be honest, i would have to suspect the programmer, but to have 2 with the same fault is pretty unlikely. Try linking out the external controls, connections 3&4 (I think)

Is it an australian one :mrgreen:

Does the diverter move to the left when the heating is turned on

Bit of a coincident, 2 the same packing up together. Have you had anyone check them?

Did you not refurb the diverter just a week ago?

I would be suspecting a blockage in the plate h/ex, preventing circulation.

Saturday your boiler was "working fine" now you want to dismantle the diverter valve. What symptoms are you getting now?

If the pump gets hot without the boiler running i would have to say its not working (motor turning, but not the impellor). Or no water in it.

Not had much dealing with these boilers, but, from the MIs it should only have 1 attempt at ignition, then lock out if it fails, which would mean a reset is reqd not just cut the demand. I'd have to advise you to get a repair man out.

Check the pressure, should be 1 bar(ish) Does the HW demand light come on when you run a tap?

What happens if you leave the demand on?