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Really like to help you out, but if I tried measuring it my breeks would fall down!

I think you may find its technique rather than the actual paint. Commonly roller marks occur where you are rolling paint onto the previous run where it has part dried so its lifting and stippling the surface (a bit like artex in minuature). The other thing is to resist the temptation to touch...

Basically strip all the loose material, seal it with a stabilising solution and then re-paint with masonry paint. However, if it is down to lack of DPC (which IMO shouldn't be too much of a problem in that part of the world), I'm starting to get out of my depth. I would suggest though that if...

Wax looks great but, as Robbie says, once its on you're stuck with it. If you still haven't decided on the finish you want, I'd make sure they don't wax them until you have decided - you could always wax them at a later date.

Sounds suspiciously like the walls weren't sealed before painting hence the dry brickwork (which is more than likely in Spain) sucked all the moisture out of the paint before it had a chance to stick.

May have been too dry so all the moisture was sucked out of the filler and it didn't have a chance to stick. I would chip out all the blown areas and check how absorbent the substrate is, if it soaks up water dead quick, its too dry, if it doesn't, its grease If its the former, seal the...

What dimensions are we talking about? Diameter and depth can make quite a difference to method.

Paper tape gives you a better finish on the butt joints, it can be hard to put up though as the method is; skim down the joint, put up your tape, run a scraper down it and then skim over the top. There'll probably be howls of protest, but I stick the tape directly to the boards with PVA - just...

Thanks for that Zampa, theres been a lot of speculation/ridicule about this bit of kit on the forums, nice to have an informed opinion. I've already had clients asking why I'm not using it - now I can tell them!

Weekend? Fine weather? Ho ho ho!

Ditto Zampa - avoid the big patterns and it'll look OK

Numerous threads on this one, general opinion is that caulking doesn't like waterbased paints - particularly if its a thick bead and hasn't dried out properly. A quick run of undercoat over the caulk seems to be the general solution

And, as mentioned earlier in this thread, just use the top couple of inches where the blade is thinner - I've cut holes of far smaller diameter nae probs!

Agree, work is work, social is social and the two don't mix!

If its just the usual 1" channel for the cables & conduit, I'd just rough fill with Carlite (bonding) to build up to about 1mm below surface of wall and then fine fill using Gyproc Easifil, feathering it out so you get it flush with the adjacent wall. you may need a fine sand (120 grade+) My...

Ditto, You could (will) end up with a very expensive mess. Rip both layers of tiles off and start from scratch. Get back to us (or even better, the Tilers Forum) if you need any advice on prepping your surface etc

Worked in a rubber factory a few years ago, making mudflaps (deep joy!). We were issued with Stanley knives, carefully embossed at one end of the handle "caution, sharp edge"! No s**t Sherlock!

Dulux or Leyland/Johnstones will match any of the thousands of colours in their range in gloss

The other beauty of the epoxy resins is that you can carve it to shape. Give it a minute or so when it just starts to go off and trim with a snappy-knife, give it another couple of minutes (by which stage it is too hard to carve) and you can tidy it up with sandpaper - if you've missed a bit...

Aha! another obsessive - join the club!