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Not a lot to choose between them, personally if theres any doubt about coverage, I'll do a second undercoat. You're going to need a third coat anyway, so I prefer to use undercoat as it will help to get a smoother finish better than an extra topcoat and it can be lightly sanded between coats.

Using it wet, the water acts as a slurry, so the abrasive doesn't clog - a bit like using oil when you're sharpening tools with an oilstone. You have to be very thorough cleaning up the soup you create, but it does a lovely job. It also keeps your dust problem down and (to a certain...

I use Gyproc Easifil for all my filling/small skims as well as taping P/B joints - dries very quickly (as soon as it goes white you can work on it), no shrinkage and sands a treat. Prices vary (wildly!) I'm getting 10Kg for £12.50 at Leylands, meanwhile Keyline are asking just short of £20...

Hi Alladin and welcome! Try http://www.aquamix.com/resource_center/problem_solving/ Theres 2 items on grout removal which may help

If the nail heads have popped, it means the plasterboard isn't firmly fixed to the joists and will keep recurring. In this situation I fit plasterboard screws about an inch away from each blown nailhead, remove the loose plaster from the nailhead and fill. Sand then spot seal the filler...

And watch out for patterns that repeat over two drops - eg flower at top L hand corner won't repeat on the next drop, but the drop after. Messed up a few times in the early days, well worth 10 minutes on the floor working out how and where repeat will come.

I've been using the acrylic primer/undercoat for years now and have never had any probs with an oilbase on top - a lot of my work is repeat business so I've had the chance to check up on previous work thats a few years old. My only reservation is in the finish, using the acrylic as an...

Agreed you can end up with a lot of sanding, but if you go in with a knife/chisel/etc about 2 mins after application it is easily carved to shape. the other advantage to two-pack is it sets so quick its no hassle to do a second or third fill to clear up any imperfections. I work on a lot of...

You can get a better finish with the 4" mohair rollers, more expensive but they don't produce the wee bubbles you often get with the foam ones

The areas where the skim coat has come off should be OK as they will fill with the new tile cement. However, the left over grout will cause a problem getting the new tiles to sit flush - this needs removing. Sharp scraper should do it but you may need the assistance of a hammer! Hot water can...

The plasterboard is loose around the nailheads and once this has happened it will keep occurring at the slightest expansion/contraction You need to stabilise the plasterboard - simplest solution is to put in plasterboard screws, put one in about an inch away from every blown nailhead, screw...

If its slightly rubbery it could be the old black Bostic stuff my old man used to use years ago, I remember does respond very well to solvents not sure which - knowing my old man he probably used petrol! - not that safe (or cheap nowadays), but you could start off with white spirit. Hopefully...

Start with enough white to complete the job, then keep adding small amounts of yellow, stirring all the time. This way you'll have paint left over - the last thing you want in this situation is to run out of paint which you haven't a hope in hell of colour matching exactly. Also bear in mind...

Personally I prefer them, they are more rigid than the acrylics - downside is they tend to lose heat slightly more quickly and (allegedly) are a bit noisier when using a shower (as if anyones worried!). Useful tip - whatever bath you do go for, pack loft insulation around the underside of the...

You stand a very good chance of lifting the existing paper. Along with trying to repair dado rail damage and papering over a border you're more than likely to end up with a complete mess. If you're intent on papering over the existing, try a test patch in a secluded corner, give it a good...

Yes 20% water

Agree with Zampa, take the paint back - why should you have to mess about and pay more because they can't provide the product you want. Go to a Dulux or Leyland Trade centre and they can mix up literally any of thousands of colours in the paint you want using a trade base. Far superior...

I'd go for eggshell every time - easy application, (relatively) quick drying, low(ish) odour, nice soft sheen finish and hard wearing.

Wouldn't consider it - a) not enough contact area b) if it does stick, (which is unlikely) the artex wil probably show through You're looking at - 1)Removing artex - c****y job, long winded, messy and no guarantee of success 2)whacking up some sheets of plasterboard, tape & skim...

Re-phrase - a trifle confused (been a long day, started painting at 6.30 this morning!) Stripping paper where the walls have been PVA sized is a lot harder, but if the L/P is sealed (emulsioned) prior to a finish paper, when the finish paper is stripped, it shouldn't take the L/P off with it...