Search results

Aye, if ceiling is bowed, check out the existing joists and strap up CLS crossways - 100mm screws, decent cordless - nae probs. This way you can set the strapping to metric spacing so any joins have a good bit of meat to screw into

No problem, you can emulsion straight onto plasterboard. Just ensure that after stripping all the old paste is washed off. Fill and sand then give it a mist coat - emulsion diluted approx 3 parts paint to 2 parts water, this will seal the plasterboard. Then give it 2 coats of full strength...

Thanks JohnD - I do a lot of work in older buildings, never had to deal with this yet but, come the day, I'll remember where I read it.

Perfectly feasible to strip the paper however, finished result depends on whether the walls were sealed or emulsioned prior to painting - if not it is very easy to damage the face of the boards, pulling strips of facing paper off the boards. Any damaged areas can be filled (I use Gyproc Easifil...

You'll need a very small brush for a 40mm cabin! Provided its weatherproof and relatively dry you'll probably get a couple of years. I'm not sure about emulsioning straight onto the timber though, could end up with peeling and cracking. May be worth considering an acrylic primer as this...

Reading so much about paste-sizing on the forums and thought I'd give it another go as its the "proper" way to do it. Its a lot harder to strip paper thats been PVA sized but I see no problem using it on lining paper as its going to be emulsioned and, as a courtesy to future decorators, I'll...

For ceilings, if they're really bad, you could consider tacking up new plasterboard then tape & skim. I do a lot of this for folk getting rid of artex and isn't nearly as hard/expensive as you may think - and definitely quicker. Also if you put up coving the same time you don't have to tape...

I tend to go for a PVA size 1 part PVA to 4 parts water and paper while it is still slightly damp. Had a nightmare week using just a paste size, everything prepped OK, come back next morning to blown lining paper all over. Most all repaired OK but ended up having to re-hang 2 drops hence...

You mention varnish and undercoat, are you painting the doors a different clour or just tarting them up with a coat of varnish? In terms of nasty niffs, go for water based paint/varnish - also very quick drying, clean brushes in water but they can be a bit more difficult to apply and you have...

Those sand- based paints can be a pain! Suggest a medium pile roller, give it a good wash before you use it otherwise you can end up with furry bits on the wall. There are two standard sizes for rollers (sorry, not got one to hand at the moment so can't give you measurements - but theres...

RobbieUK has it covered, however, why Farrow & Ball? They are horribly expensive and most folk agree that the finish is not all its cracked up to be. I would suggest cross referring the colour either with a Dulux or Leyland colour chart at their Trade Centres, they both have a range of...

Ditto Joe90, However, I'd go for lining paper if theres any doubts about hairline cracks, relatively cheap option, easy to do and gives you a brilliant base to work from.

I've been led to believe that the Acrylic primer/undercoat will seal the knots and does away with knotting altogether, is this correct? Not had any problems with bleed-through using the acrylics, but can only check back on timber I've done about 5 years ago.

If thats what it says on the tin......... Better to spend a few hours of purgatory getting your prep right rather than having to do the whole lot over again n a couple of weeks!

The solvent-based ones tend to be a bit more difficult to apply than the non-solvent but they definitely stick better. I use SLS*** for the heavy duty stuff and a non-solvent Gripfil/Megagrip/Whatevers-Cheapect for the rest

Zinsser BIN springs to mind for the varnish, needs sufficient sanding for a decent key but it'll give you a good, solid primer base - used it on varnished surfaces and its brilliant. Not sure if it'll do Danish oil though, try googling Zinsser and check their spec sheets, or do a small test...

Normally a mist coat is 25-30% water. Some emulsions are thicker than others, you want it more single cream than double cream, but get it fairly sloppy. Generally in the trade, we'll use a non-vinyl contract matt for mist coating, its just sealing the wall so it doesn't need to look great at...

I'd mist-coat, recently had a couple of extra-dry walls, the first was a nightmare, even had to sand off some of the roller marks it was drying so quickly - came up OK eventually. Second one, noticed how quickly water was being absorbed while washing down and put on a mist-coat - nae probs.

And don't forget the batch number - its incredible how much difference ther can be between two seemingly identical papers from different batches. Fell foul the other week - wifie had got the paper in and like a numpty I didn't check the batch numbers, half way through stood back and had a...

Ditto DSD, Make sure you give the walls a good size (mix instructions on paste packet) and, after you've pasted each sheet, let it soak for at least 5 minutes, preferably 10. When you're butting up the drops make sure you don't overlap, it shows up something terrible after the paint job...