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:lol: nobs :lol:

i wouldnt trust it just cos BC signed it off.

wet it before installation.

im with nose.i hardly ever use acrows/strongboys for smaller openings. in stretcher bond brickwork there is a tiny section of brickwork thats not supported,so if the masonary is tight theres not a problem.if the masonary is loose,thats a diff matter.

years ago BC and NHBC preferred dry mix in these situation and thennnnnnnnnnnnnn NHBC went against this thinking and required stronger concrete as the water was washing out the cement and weakening the concrete. pump out as much water as poss and then trench fill the foundation.i always trench...

go to a local joiners and ask them to make you a cill.they will glue a few bits together to the size you require.

i always use pozi myslef unless slotted screws come in a pack with any given item i order.

weld a plate on the bottom,drill 4 holes in each.concrete a pad in the ground.drill the concrete and fix the steel to the pad,put a shim under the centre of the post plate and tighten the fixings ina way the post is nice and plumb.backfill hole with concrete to depth you want your soil etc...

you could go for 2 timbers bolted together at 600mm centres.easier than a steel and more readily available. although your joists may be up to spec size wise they could be under spec timber grade wise.just 1 possibility from a few.

hilti use to do one called a hit kit,a 2 part mix in silicone type tubes and auto mix down the twisty nozzle.

i got an ace frying pan from "the range" for £18.00 a few years back,flippin ace it is,nice and sturdy,hasnt bent like cheap one do,its brill.

me neither so at the moment i get everything from buildbase.

i always do A and not had a problem.

do you mean skirting?? and as above,take off the old and if need be replace.

TP are always the most expensive when i price up.Buildbase cement £3.20 not used the other materials ina while so dont know off the top of my head,except most places for ton bags are around the £40.00 mark.the breathable felt sounds expensive.i think my last roll was about £75.00 and may have...

i think class B engineering bricks are crap,they dont do what they say they do on the tin.ive seen loads of class B eng bricks flaking/failing.i think some of the semi engineering bricks,blagard was referring to hold up as well if not better.only real option for these types of wall IMO are class...

if its general light storage just lay your chipboard down.there is a small allowance built into the truss design for light storage.

doing what youre suggesting is not really practical and risks creating condensation.

if it is the drive,put a channel drain the length of the drive/property to get the water away.

for a DIY job,just dig out like you said in stategic positions.,bed your slabs on consolidated sand/cement or concrete and place your shde on them. a professional job is to dig out,place 100mm compacted type 1(my preferred materail).shutter up and pour concrete 100mm thick.allow to...