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got any pics???. hard to advise without any pics. might be possible to build a gable wall off the party wall but you would need permission from your neighbours.

jewsons do them.canopys that is.and sun pipes.

the walla are a matter of personal choise. i personally hate drywall. the ceilings can be plastered flat. you would have to ask the plasterer if he's willing/able to brick up the wall.

not sure why you're questioning your engineer.i go to them for adviceand then do as they tell me.

cut a jigsaw blade down to the correct depth. i did this last week to cut new in-situ plaster board on irregular exisiting rafters to make sure i got the cuts exactly centre of the rafter.never done it that way before but is so easy.

i think this thread has served its purpose lol

call child protection,its cheaper. probably as well to use insulation board between battens and then plasterboard.its not a specifically sound deadening material but readily available.they may have some sound deadening materials in stock.its not something i use in everyday building work.

may not be that drastic.you could construct 2 new piers,will impact on the new opening admittedly but wouldnt be that costly.i would say,dont panic until you find out for sure whats going on. hope you get it sorted and you might get something out of him but could be a long process.

ive seen wally' use them on hammer and without a clutchless drill.not a pretty sight. i prefer the core bits with a drill bit in the centre

they wont be dragging you off to court on monday if thats when they come out.i think they will be sympathetic and try and help you resolve the problems.they wont be looking for corrections to be done overnight,IF there is something not to spec.

got a pic of the wall???,as 340mm is a wide wall.

ditto freddy.try and get a BCO to run his tester over them.i fitted my own windows/doors a few years back and accidentely put 1 unit in back to front and when they came to sign the extension off they picked it up.he said the heat loss was minimal in a single unit(patio door) that i shouldnt...

ive used p2p but i have a low spec pooter so it keeps freezing but if you have a faster pooter you may be ok.

with so many reservations about this guys work i think i would go to your local council,Building Control and get them involved.they may be able to get a copy of the plans and that would answer the load bearing wall/foundation question.Once you have the answer to this question will dictate what...

why not just remove it all together and repair the roof.

i only ever use marshalltown as they are weighted nicely and well built and have a good handle.

sounds like inferior core bit.id take it back. does your drill have a clutch??,if not i wouldnt use it again for core drilling. you want to go for diamond tipped core bits. dont use your drill on hammer. it should never take 3 hours.

if there was no foundation its unlikely to be load bearing.your could lift a floor borad at the point of where the wall use to be and then you'll be able to see if the joists rested on the wall,which i doubt as you would have noticed as soon as you walked upstairs. your neighbour should know...

work backwords from the FF,thickness of laminate,chipboard and then you have your insulation thickness needed. insulation onto the concrete base,then your DPM,then the chipboard, then a thin VB and then your laminate .

oh im sorry,i dint back read the thread :lol: .clad it in steel and save the condensation.