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Yes screw it in until you feel it increasing the revs. But you might have to gig out the two adjustment screws L and H, hopefully not as they can be hard to get right. double check the condition of your air filter and inlet manifold gasket? But as long as it starts, you have a chance, mess to...

Could be in limp mode so as above. So might be an easy fix, but as its for sale, unlikely ............

Dont fully rule out undulating (corrugated) sheeting, if unsure use screws with a sealing washer, but nails will be fine. Drill the sheet first

Looks as though the impeller came loose and the spring pushed it out against the back case?

As above pump needs to be timed (sorry driven off the timed belt), so hopefully the leak is from a pipe in behind the timing belt cover. Definitely not an easy job, if it is the pump that is leaking, and the engine still runs, you were very, very lucky. Stay lucky ...........

I agree, very bad way to handle a customers vehicle and it seems all salvage yards use this technique.

If its a localized leak consider a roll of torch on felt over the area, just be careful of the heat on other parts of the roof. Or better still a sheet of corrugated cladding, keep it simple ...........

If to late for weedkiller (you need things to be growing to take Roundup in) consider using a hired petrol strimmer. It will make a world of difference and allow you to see whats what.

Transit as above, but lord they are hard to work on, just no room under the bonnet, oh and the rust as mentioned.

Honda diesel? Make sure its tight as parts are expensive, in my limited experience. Volvo good at the price point, engines need topping up with oil as they get older, but a very nice 5 cylinder diesel. Mercedes ML270 will be also available for not much more .........

Try STP oil treatment or (Wynns), more probable wear in the lobes of the cam than tappet adjustment, causing the racket. Oh and an oil change, if needed .........

Thank you John, hope you're keeping well .............

Swap wheels .......... Any fault codes logged, especially ESP/ABS/Traction codes? Local garage will be able to read the codes for you. Piston sticking on a front brake caliper. 4 wheel laser alignment might throw up something?

Walk on plenty, or roll Rake leaving the finish quite firm so the levels will stay as they are. Water well lay turf, ensuring you have enough loose soil for the turf to grow into 25mm will be plenty. Keep watered ...........

Those panel will lift away from the base, should just be sliding fit in the posts? If not slide a plastic sheet underneath, use a wedge to get a working gap, you wont need much.

If its not of sentimental value might be a good time to trade up? Get prices of everything before you start the repair ............

Clutch shaft (spigot shaft) not allowing the clutch disk to float when you release the clutch? WD40 onto the shaft through a hole in the housing, working blind. Even if you only get a small amount on, you will find a difference. Or engine mounting not tightened after clutch replacement. Visual...

Local garage will plug it in for you into the laptop, see what fault codes are logged. Best to delete all and watch for the most recent. Probably just a sensor

Corrugated stuff will be best ............ But if you cant get the corrugated flashing (technical term there) you can use flat stuff. Just use a piece of corrugated sheet on the ground to tap the very edge of the flashing into the corrugation, if that makes sense. The stuff he has in his hand...

Cut as tight as you can Sprinkle sulphate of iron on and let it get damp. Click or more details