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A wee chisel (screwdriver) might get the shear bolts to loosen, or so I'm told? You might be lucky with changing the back of the switch. Don't turn the switch when connected until you reconnect to the barrel. That way the ignition wasn't turned on without the transponder making contact with the key.

Plenty of WD40 (or the like) and a light touch if you do get a grip on the broken stud. Might be worth letting oil soak in overnight. You wont get to many chances to grip before slipping .........

Local small garage will scan for a set charge if you ask them. Double check the scanner will do your car , if you decide to purchase.

Yes as above You could take the air filter out and see if things change without it? Inspect air / vacuum hoses for cracks, leaks.

Try a different earth for your meter, on the main bodywork rather than the door. If you have two twisted together wires going into the door/window controller the door is controlled by a CAN network. So you will not get voltages on the meter as you expect. We had Fiat back in the day and are...

Might be worth a flutter on the lottery ............... A three way split, before you ask .............

Fault codes?

Thanks for the reply, radiator clean on the outside, have to check inside. Gauge going into the red and into limp mode, haven't tried another sensor, but definitely will.

Any pointers to why the above with the 2.0L BMW is overheating when under full load, then goes into limp mode? If no heavy load it will drive all day fine. Water pump and thermostat changed and the electric fan running. Not showing any heat gasket weakness ............. Any help appreciated

The second one, also on your V5 ..........

Telling you about a CV boot, did you tell him the saga over the spark plugs ......... 8) Great you have things nailed down to the radio and even its working ......... Epic ............

Mate used windows for a conservatory roof, it dripped/leaked. They were new units and supplier told him they were not for water lying constantly in the joints .... :shock: So he used clear mastik on all the joints and that sorted the problem out.

Yes that's a good idea, it might be better just to get them working, first? Don't go taking them off and fitting something else. Connect them directly to a supply that comes on with the key, as John mentioned the rear wiper supply (before the wiper switch). They should work fine without a...

Shout if I can help ...........

If you wire the circuit this way, as in my first post, it doesn't work? RED: To 12Volts looks like you have to turn the rear wiper on for the DTRL's to work? But any fused constant power will do to test BLACK: To chassis earth Power feeds two blues: One to each Day Time Running Light...

That's a pity. So, it might be worth just connecting it up again, just in case you missed something? If you haven't got a reaction and you don't want to "leave it back" Then ........................ I may have been mistaken telling you that 30 goes to the battery supply. Connect 30...

From your wiring diagram: RED: To 12Volts looks like you have to turn the rear wiper on for the DTRL's to work? But any fused constant power will do to test BLACK: To chassis earth Power feeds two blues: One to each Day Time Running Light Yellow/Green to cut the brightness of the DTRL's...

Would PVC be an option? We bought lengths of white 50x50x2mm for €4 a length, so its worth shopping around. Just an example of whats available http://www.irishflooring.ie/product_info.php?products_id=7903

Have another wee look its probably the bottom plastic engine/transmission cover, no? You car is a small petrol, so I can't see them fitting an additional sub frame? Edit: Sorry John I didn't see you there ........

Bonded in, so there is still glass stuck to the mounting channel? If so remove the surrounding trim (clipped on) and clean all the broken glass and sealant off, using a sharp edge. Be careful not to mark the surrounding body work. Use masking tape to protect paintwork if you need to. Using...