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The whole idea of a sub is to move lots of air in the room that you're listening in. Submerging it and allowing the air into the room via holes in a trapdoor negates this. Mounting it on cushions is also a bad idea. If the sub is working properly, the speaker cone should be moving, but the...

You need to establish where your aerial(s) is/are, whether there's a satellite dish, and whether or not they are connected to your flat. Both wall plates have screws holding them to the wall. Unscrew the one with multiple sockets and determine what, if anything, is connected to it at the...

Finally got around to the intumescent mastic, around the perimeter and along the joint lines between the plasterboard pieces, and the lounge is MUCH warmer now. Thanks to all who provided info, much appreciated.

Find out where your nearest FM transmitter is, and place the radio where it has the best line of sight to the transmitter. Used to be you could find out the locations from the BBC site, but maybe not anymore.... www.digitalspy.co.uk? google?

DO you have any kind of HiFi or music system in the same room, which does have a headphone socket? If so, look on Maplin for a SCART - phono lead, take the audio output from the phonos, plug in to 'Tape in' or 'Aux in' on the HiFi, and control volume from there. If not, get the lead from...

If you go deep enough, won't you run out of concrete? How deep is the concrete floor? Solution would appear to be; Remember where the channel is, and lift the sofa/piano etc over it when you move them. You should be finding one place for the piano and leaving it there, shouldn't you? So...

I've got two batteries for my Lumix still camera - one is the original supplied with the camera, the other a cheap generic one from Hong Kong via eBay. The only one that holds a charge for any length of time is the original. For what it's worth, the cheap generic that I got lasts around...

Why would you want to use all of them? The first two are variants on write-once, the last two variants on write/rewrite.

I'm surprised at those who have to select disc types, format discs, and especially at those who report failed finalising, and 'coasters'. In a number of years of using DVD recorders, I can't recall a single instance where I ended up with a coaster, other than through my own operator error...

"The DVD recorder to me has one bad feature in that it has to be in stand-by to use a pre-set recording time. Not a clue why!" You mean you have to put it into 'timer' mode in order to use the recording timer.....? What else would you have it do?

Oh, and another thing - Repeated plays on a VHS tape and machine WILL wear the tape and machine down, and you'll lose quality with time. Foreign matter on the tape or machine will interfere with the tape/head contact and may potentially damage both. You don't get this effect with DVD...

What kind of DVD recorder are you using, that requires you to 'select' a disc type, and format the disc? To tackle your points in sequence - If I want to record on VHS (or any other tape-SVHS,Betacam etc) I stick a tape in the machine and press "Record". If the tape has been recorded...

OK, you've got the LPs, but no room for a 'proper' HiFi System - you don't have the turntable that you originally played those vinyls on? Do you have any HiFi gear at the moment? Firstly, if the majority of LPs are over 30 years old (how many have you got, by the way?), I'd google, amazon...

...yet they remain in use on traffic lights..... and rail signals.... etc etc

I always thought Plumber's Mait was the stuff to put between basin fitting and the basin itself on the top side.

What result do you get if you move the aerial and TV from the front of the house to the back? If that gets you a good result, then that implicates the son's TV at the back as not doing a good job with the signal it's getting. You've already tried it with the same aerial as the front partnered...

You may want to also determine in advance whether or not the soil pipe is cast iron or PVC design as this will have a bearing on what you need..... Also, if you're pulling WC bowl AND cistern forward all in one, enlist extra help to support the cistern - I'd be inclined to take the cistern...

If there's more than one installer available locally, get one or more quotes from a CAI member (Confederation of Aerial Installers)

Was the isolator originally attached direct to the base of the cistern valve? If you're going to attach it again, might be good policy to use a fresh washer.

Lots of advice in the tech forum at showerdoctor.co.uk