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Newark copper cylinder manufacture cylinders (obviously) of all types, and have experience in thermal stores (and oddities); they don't tend to actually sell direct, but the people can advise and suggest designs, and seem to be able to include anything and everything you can ask for (coils...

The original post said the over temp device has been defeated to eliminate the possibility of a (common) fault in that. Looking at the functional diagram; this only reacts to the temperature of the mixed water: So for it to act, there has to be either a fault, or more hot than cold flowing...

Probably just the more powerful pump forcing air out along with the water. I have an LG too, that does a similar thing, but not too bothered as in the utility room... I guess ultimately, I'll get a dedicated waste fitted for the outlet.

If nothing else; the make / model would enable you (or others) to google for the manual. Without guidelines for ventilation and clearance, not many would be prepared to move it. Some (older) boilers take air from the room, so probably can't be in a small enclosed space, at least without extra...

Yep. Cylinder thermostat. I guess I can always experiment to find out, but it would have been nicer of them to tell you in the docs! That's pretty much the plan. Only; if the valve is shut, and the VR65 doesn't know it (no connections for the switch wires or any other input), it's just going to...

Oh, whoops. I also meant to ask; is there any problem with using this connection as a cylinder 'call for heat', alongside the temperature probe?

Seems to have been a few people on this forum setting up these! They're never configurable enough, are they? Anyway; can anyone tell me if it's expecting a stat to close on temperature, or open? Any configurability? If you (ok; I) were to use the tank stat as a failsafe for a vr10, would...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27772265@N00/114232718

Clean them? Some have a strainer built-in, or they might simply be blocked with silt or solder. A DIY job would be to turn off the supply, and strip / clean them (perhaps fit a new washer, like a tap). If they're noticeably slow, I'm presuming there's a fault. Older ones are rubber washer based.

To be fair; a freestanding appliance with a hose could give the impression it is plug-and-go, not necessarily that it-has-to-be-done-professionally-but-I'll-hodge-it-instead. Just get a gas man to install it. Short of a major fault (you'll be glad you didn't use it), I'd expect it still to be...

That's just the switch clicking on and off (mechanical, not caused by electrical 'flow'). IMHO you need to find if any of the heating equipment is getting power. Does anything have a display or light? Presumably the old pilot light keeps burning without power, so that's no indicator. Checked...

Do you know how old, or any other details of the supply pipe? I'm presuming as the hw tank is so old, the property is too. And if it's a lead pipe, there's usually a possibility of getting it replaced (hence, upgraded, hopefully!) free. Might be a good first step to see if it helps the...

I actually meant doubts re. the ability of a mains pressure shower. But see the point! And I'm no expert on mains water supplies, but 15mm would seem small for most properties these days. The best question would be; do you notice when a second tap is turned on? The pressure/throughput isn't...

I thought the general idea of a pumped shower is to get the absolute maximum output possible! So I have the simple opinion that if you like your (pumped) shower, you should keep it. As you have the room, I believe a header tank to be a useful feature. Plus there's the extra complexity...

Manuals on their website state the switched terminals are L1 and L2 http://www.idealheating.com/downloads/manuals/203320_inst.pdf http://www.idealheating.com/product-literature/brochures-manuals.php