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System is 10 years old and I have always had to bleed air from 1 or 2 radiators upstairs. Adding inhibitor reduced it. Changed the pump 4 months ago and the noises started then The measurement is exactly 150mm I can move tee section as you suggest . Can you expand on cleaning you...

It is . It was easier to connect to original 15mm pipe from expansion tank. 15mm pipe is about 12" long. Is that a problem ?

yes

Cowley - thanks for your continued help. I have already cleaned the system out and the expansion tank is very clean. A radiator in a first floor bathroom has 2 myson standard valves The fitting on the horizontal pipe is a compression joint. I decided to use the compression joints in case I...

Have it set on lowest setting for the last few days and that has reduced the noise. Had the pump running for several hours and not a murmur when the boiler is off but when I switch the boiler on the running water noise sound gets greater after half an hour and then when the system is at full...

Thanks again for the feedback. When I did the jam jar test and water was sucked up the pipe briefly is that normal. I interpreted that as being drawn down to the horizontal section. I have done some more tests which could assit proper diagnosis I got my wife to cycle the pump on and off a...

Tony - the feed pipe was originaly 15mm but I was advised to replace it with 22mm when I cut out a minor blockage in the feed pipe. When you suggest running a 22mm just below the F&E tank would that run in parallel with the horizontal pipe 14" above the pump

142 cms Any other thoughts ?

I have for sometime now been experiencing air problems as per this previous post I have a Potterton Prima 60F Central Heating system - simple heating system with 16 rads each with TVR so no room stat. Had problems with air in the system for a number of years. Changed the pump approx 6 months...

Rad valves are Myson matchmaker. Some have green deposits on the top and one is fairly rusty. No apparent water leaks though. Example below http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/cragga_lfc/dad/CentralHeating012.jpg

Not sure what the radiators are made of - they are magnetic if that helps. Tried the match test directly on the bleed valve a number of weeks ago - fortunate for me no flame hence no gas

Silvery colour is paint - the non painted pipes are new further to removing blockage as described earlier

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/cragga_lfc/dad/CentralHeating004.jpg This picture is showing left riser from Boiler - top left going to vent - top right cold feed and bottom right into pump ( arrow on the pump pointing down...

if air being sucked in via vent pipe, is it possible to remove the vent pipe and resort to combined feed/vent pipe layout on previous =

It is the overflow pipe. It exits the tank 70 mm from the top but if you can picture an upside down L shape that is 170 mm from the top and hence 25mm or so are submerged in water ps This is linked to " still getting air in the C/H system after chemical cleaning " - photographs now included...

How important is the depth. The level in my expansion tank is 175mm ensuring that the bottom of the overflow pipe is always under water. Could this explain why I continually have to bleed the system ?

Could only get hold of my son's mobile phone so apologies for quality and number of pictures - hopefully makes sense. Vent on the left - feed on the right http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/cragga_lfc/dad/boiler_10_031.jpg...

no manual air vent - should there be one on a vented system ?

Have repeated this check. On start up water was briefly sucked up the vent pipe before returning to normal level followed by a number of large bubbles. Does this help diagnosis ?

All joints are clean 4 weeks Understood will do and report back end of week