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yes you should be able to do it just turn the water off first, you can get most replacement washers from the sheds or plumbers merchants, can you post up a pic of it ?

change the washer in the toilet ballvalve/fill valve

sorry was looking at output & not looking at the max heat input 22.54kw x 9 cm2 = 202.86 :oops:

high & low vents 202.86 cm2= change the doors for louver doors flue guard 50mm away from the flue in all directions distance from gutter/eaves 300mm personally i would have just NCS it but i'm not BG edited due to incorrect fiqures

in the bin, best place for filter washers

Lee you forgot that other quality manu, Gainsborough :)

but you have ufh & your floors look like walls after a few g&t's :D

I never chase heating pipes into a solid wall, the expansion will crack the plaster everytime

well what an interesting 1st post, you went to look at a boiler today, that had only been in a week (ebay was it cause it couldn't have been new unless it's been in your garage for a few yrs), your apprentice had fitted a new pcb GSR is he ? & you didn't know he had, why didn't you get ideal...

you will see vapour coming out of a modern boiler, thats why RGI's call them steamers, plus there will be alot less "dangerious gases" coming out of one compaired to an old one, it's just with an old one you couldn't see the poc's, you have already been given the answer to your prob by Tony

I'm not sure why glowworm even gave you any info on that fault, to change either the main pcb or the user interface you need to be an RGI as they both effect the combustion

as ian said drain some water out & see if the tank re-fills what ever you do is gonna cost a few quid, new pump, zone valve on the h/w, cylinder stat, new programmer, auto bypass, & if your boiler really is a 1982 model i'd put money on that cylinder being older than that so that may need...

I think the pump just about sums up that install, you could def do with some upgrading, undo the nut on the front of the pump & pull it towards you (it won't come off) & that is attached to the inside of the pump & thats how you can see if it's stuck, tbh myson pumps are rubbish & i would be...

is the 10mm copper or plastic ? if it's plastic don't use those because when you have tighten enough to snap the olive it will have also sheared through the pipe, if it is plastic pipe use a proper reducing set, or better still buy 10mm trv's & if you get the right ones you won't even have...

well you started it by choosing your nick, i altered mine before the p**s taking could start :lol:

Don't fret too much Chloe we have our ways at payback with customers like him :wink:

oh htf got in first, but he didn't take the mick as much as i would have :wink:

as above, plus your g/f dad won't be corgi reg it hasn't existed for 4 yrs it's gas safe, just because he is an RGI it doesn't mean he can repair boilers, two slow flashing lights is an overheat prob however it could be due to a number of things, but you need an RGI who deals with boiler repairs...

a swivel one, do you mean a tap conn ?

how could your tradesman be an un-secured creditor unless you go bankrupt & anyway i'd have a charge on your house way before that happened, that's providing i wouldn't have already ripped the rad off the wall & nicked the wheels off your caravan