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I am about to platerboard the ceiling of my loft and I need advice on what I need to place where The roof itself is some form of fibre based tile (a bit like the stuff they make some heavy corrugated roofs out of - may even be asbestos based?). These are nailed to battons which in turn are...

They just did the job properly :D

I think it is more likely that all of the 60's and 70's houses that are now being 'modernised' will suddenly become realised for their place in our historical and cultural heritage, people will then go around re-installing the dodgy old gas fireplaces, re-artexing the ceilings and shares in...

if I were you I would look at some of these bolts that you can secure in place using a resin mixture, I think it would give a much stronger adhesion than poylfilla (which is great for filling up holes but is not structural enough to take the weight of your shelves I think). Alternatively look at...

A normal socket will definately drive a square headed coach bolt, but if you dont like the idea of this why not switch to hex head coach bolts?? I cant see that there is any disadvantage to doing this and you can be sure your socket will fit

we used to use baby oil and I agree it works a treat

I power washer also works but make sure you dont blast away the mortar

Having bought and sold in the UK and then here in Belgium, I cant understand why the system in good old Blighty is not changed. It is one of the few things that I have found that virtually everyone agrees should be changed. Here you sign a contract binding you in to the purchase once an offer...

even if the pin on the TRV appears to be free, the valve can still be sticking, try giving it a few (gentle) taps with a light hammer/spanner/wrench and it may release it. For future reference it is worth checking that these things work before you install them and then you dont have this...

how do you know if it is lime mortar?

when I have installed kitchens in the past I have fed the water and waste pipes in to the units through holes cut in the unit back/base in the approproate place. With the use of modern (and use good quality) push fittings you can do this and only need a single, nice hole for each pipe. Then you...

I am pretty handy at most things and in my last house I attempted plastering. I did a reasonable job, and people never knew I had done it. However, I knew that it was there and it certainly was not as good as the rest of the plaster, and in the end it bugged me so much that now I would never...

I picked up this very useful link see this

I think that the main problem would be if you ever need to get under the floor for access to electrics, water pipes or waste pipes. It is bad enough to get through a single T&G floor in a decent fashion, but I think if there are 2 layers it would be very difficult to get the floor back down nice...

I had one of the electric ones from Bosch that cost around £100 (model 1500 or something like that) and it was absolutely useless, always getting blocked, requiring every last cm to be pushed through and being very very slow. When I started looking for a new one recently I noticed that they...

get yourself a convertible!! My last neighbours cats never went on the garden but I couldnt keep them off the roof of the car :x

I have a Karcher, I am not sure of the exact number, but I think it is 550M. It came with a special attachement for cleaning stone work, and this essentially gives a rotating jet of water. I have to say I have been VERY impressed with the results I have obtained and now have gleaming stone work...

I was just planning on using a couple of bags of ready mix, will this be ok?? what do you define as a good mix ratio?? (the stuff I bought was for foundations)

too late, the old lintel had rotted away and fell apart in my hands. Like I said there is not really much above it (a door with its own lintel) so I dont think it is suporting much. Is there anything I should watch out for when casting the new one??

I have a cellar on my house and a lintel which used to be above the coal chute has rotted (it was wood). I thought that the easiest way to get around this problem was to cast a concrete lintel in situ. Is this a good idea? I had intended to put a few reinforcing rods in place just for good...